Monday, September 30, 2013

Montana Big Sky Country August 27-31




Montana is known for its big skies, but they have big ice too. In most parts people call them glaciers, here they just refer to them as "ice cubes", that's how big things are in Montana. Their ice cubes are so big that in order to house them under that great big sky of theirs they created a national park. In fact, they are so big that even after creating the park they figured they would share them with our Canadian neighbors to the north and thus the "International" attribute of Glacier International Park (www.nps.gov/glac/).

 So after breaking camp in the Flathead National Forest I entered the park to have a look for myself and drove the entire length of the "Road to the Sun" which crosses the Continental Divide at Logan Pass and was considered an engineering miracle when it was built in 1932. The road engineering is impressive, if a little narrow for today's vehicles. The fact that it is an International Peace Park shared with our Canadian neighbors is also not lost on me, but I have to say that I wasn't all that impressed with the park in general. Perhaps if you hike in and explore the backcountry you might get more "wow" factor out your visit, but to my eyes it was much less scenic than many other parks. Maybe it's the influence of those conservative Canuks!? (just kidding)

St. Mary's Lake
For one thing, there were very few glaciers visible and I certainly expected more on that account based on the park's name. Even the scenic overlooks were pretty lackluster to me. I might have thought that I simply took a bad route through the park, but the "Road to the Sun" is the only road through the park. The saving graces were the views of St. Mary's Falls and Virginia Falls as well as Sunrift Gorge which was small, but interesting. The park's big lake, St. Mary's, is usually the spot with the most photo potential , but the wind was on it enough to mess up the reflections and not enough to blow away the wildfire haze in the air. I decided to cut my losses and exit the east end of the park rather than spend another day exploring.

I did duck back into the park a little farther south just a bit before dark to settle in for the night. I woke up at 4:30am for some reason so I peaked outside and saw clear skies and moonlight. Figuring I can always sleep when I'm dead, I set up the camera and managed to recoup some of my perceived losses by getting a good moon lit photo of mountains reflecting in Medicine Lake under the stars. 
 
Medicine Lake helped cure my ills
I noticed the lack of humming coming from my refrigerator the next morning and knew I had burned another fuse. To add insult to injury the inside of the fridge was coated in yogurt which had exploded due to the pressure differentials of going from low to high altitude. I stopped in Great Falls, Montana and bought some more fuses. I didn't notice any "Great" falls or even "So-So" falls there so I continued on down to Helena

After lunch I noticed that not only the fridge was dead again, but so was everything else in the van! It was time to quit side stepping the issue and get down to business by ripping everything apart  and troubleshooting.  Mr. Murphy must have been grinning as his stupid law was once again proven correct when I eventually found the problem.  A loose ground wire, the very last connection I tested!

Juiced up again I visited a local bike shop to pick their brains on a good ride for the next day. My internet research and the bike shop guy's opinion matched so the ride for the day would be The Mount Helena Ridge. It's a ~12 mile ride and considerably more strenuous and technical than I expected. (Ride Specifics: Gravel road ride up Grizzly Gulch and right onto Prospector Gulch, 4.5 miles to trailhead. Then a strenuous 1.1 mile rocky single track climb. Up down, up down and then another extremely difficult, but short climb.  Next  is 4.5 miles of mostly downhill rocky single track with a few tricky tight switchbacks. At the 10 mile mark make  a right and drop down on McKelvie Trail to Dump Gulch which leads straight back to parking lot.)  The last 2 miles were very fast, and you are on the brakes most of the time. And like the rest of the ride, it is very rocky. Kicked my ass, but it was a hoot and worth it. There are also some very nice open meadows with great expansive views along the ridge. 

Leaving Helena and arriving in Bozeman I saw a post  from my friend Carl that he was up from Utah and also in Bozeman. Small world. More on that in a moment.

In the morning I decided to keep my legs pumping and in the morning drove down into Hyalite Canyon where there are lots of different rides to choose from. I stopped in at the reservoir which was a center of much activity on this beautiful clear morning with lots of people and pets frolicking in the water and enjoying activities such as kayaking, fishing, rafting, picnicking, etc.  I ended up at the "History Rock" trailhead for another great ride. 

Two groups were doing it as an out and back. But a third group said it was a seriously strenuous climb requiring many dismounts or "Hike-a-Bikes", so I opted for a loop. Montana must have highly skilled riders because again this ride was more challenging and technical than the descriptions would lead you to believe.  (Ride Specifics: Rode the Canyon Road 2.8 miles north along Hyalite Canyon and hung a left onto Langor Creek forest road. ~5 mile ascent, sometimes tough. Then another left at the top onto History Rock Trail. 3 mile Bomb down to the parking lot!)  There were  really tight switches, lots o' rocks (fixed and loose), roots, some off camber sections and really fast downhills. Your brakes will be scorching! The second half of the downhill was equally fast, but much less rocky and more swoopy!  Another great ~11 mile ride in all and I finished quicker than both of the out and back groups.

Climbing towards Big Sky
On the way out I found my buddy Carl hanging from a big rock where he was giving climbing instruction for MSU. I sat in on the class and watched as he taught knots and hitches. After class they decided to do a little climbing so I took pics until it was my turn. There was a 5.8 and 5.10 route. Since there was no 5.13 to do I went for the 5.8. So what do you get for not doing any upper body work for over 6 months? Well, if you're like me, you only get up half way before your arms get overly pumped and start to cramp. In my defense, it was only the second time I had ever climbed and I was assured that the route was a solid and legitimate 5.8 (Easiest starts at 5.4). 

A good day of physical activities always calls for a good meal and usually a few cold ones. So we ended the day by riding bicycles to Bacchus Pub where we met a few more of Carl's friends, both local and non local. We all enjoyed an evening of lively discussions on topics such as climbing, the fracking in North Dakota, and the critical water conditions facing the west,  all while racking up a $300+ tab! 

Tomorrow I'll make way into Wyoming and Yellowstone Park. If I'm not too hung over, that is!



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