The Badlands of South Dakota

Mid June 2013

      Before beginning this trip I had what you'd call an intuition that I should make sure to go to South Dakota. I really didn't know why and indeed even as I was about to drive into South Dakota I still didn't have any specific expectations. I was aware that Mount Rushmore was there, but that wasn't terribly significant for me.  I just had this gut feeling that I needed to spend some time there. In general though, if there is a National Park within reach I point myself in its direction. So when I saw Badlands National Park on the map, I put it in my sites and took aim. I'm mean seriously, with a name like "Badlands" how can you not be drawn to it! 

Night sets on the Badlands

Well it was here that I would point to as the "Unofficial Official beginning" of my trip. This is where the  real type of new discovery that I'm looking for on this escapade began. On the way to the park I  stopped to have a  quick look at some early settlers' sod houses to appreciate their simplicity and the ingenuity of basically living "in the ground". Afterwards, as I approached the park a wave of excitement rose from the tips of my toes up to the top of my skull. Actually it might better be described as "Joy". As I pulled away from the entrance gate and got a glimpse of the landscape ahead I actually let out an involuntary giggle, like a child about to enter Disneyland.

The bottom of an ancient ocean

I will, of course, post more photos when I get a chance to process them, but it really is a place that must be seen in person to be fully appreciated. Millions of years ago there was an ocean in what is now the western mid-west so today as you travel through the park you are actually driving on what was once the bottom of an ocean. It is striking and surreal. A desert like ancient sea floor punctuated by sheer, multi-color banded mini-mountains jutting sharply into the deep blue skies accented by the nearly glowing rich green of the lush grasslands.

Being late in the afternoon I did an initial drive-thru along the 24 mile road through the park taking it all in and trying to mark out some exceptional spots to come back and photograph. The scenes are so striking that you really have to be careful not to dive off a precipice as you drive the long and winding road staring at the painted imagery before you.  

At the western end of the park is Sage Creek road, which after 13 miles of kicking up dust clouds, lands you at the camping area. It's also where the 2000 lb. Bison otherwise known as Buffalo like to hang out. After an evening photo session in the park I made my way back to the camping area and since it was late I decided not to set up the tent and instead slept in the van. Around 2 am I was awoken from a dream where I was stuck at the wrong end of a driving range under a barrage of golf balls. As it turns out, back in the waking world we were being pelted by a hail storm. A win for me and my steel tent! Although I did feel bad as a watched the mad scramble happening all around me as the soft tenters scurried for cover. 

In the morning I awoke very early, around 4:15am, with the hopes of getting some nice sunrise shots. As I rubbed the sand out of the eyes I was pleasantly rewarded. The sky was a glow with vivid pinks and oranges dancing through the clouds. I quickly grabbed my camera and as I was about to get out of the van I was startled to see two huge buffalo grazing not 10 yards from me! Not wanting to risk their wrath for disturbing breakfast I decided to forgo the sunrise shots and instead took aim at these two natives from the safety of Mage. But the excitement of the morning didn't end there as later a bird flew into the van. Fortunately, with a towel and some soothing verbal reassurance I was able to extricate the little bird from its temporary cage and set it on its merry way. 

Over the next few days I had a field day exploring the park and taking photographs. If you drive straight through the park it should take about 35-40 minutes. In reality, for me, it took about 5 hours since every 1/4 mile I would have to pull over to capture images of Bison, Long Horn Sheep, Prairie Dogs or just another captivating landscape just begging to be appreciated. 

One of the drawbacks of playing a photographer in such a place as this photographer's wet dream is that all patterns of normalcy are thrown right out the window. The best shooting light is very early as the sun is rising and then again a little before and after sunset. But there is also so much to shoot throughout the day as well as doing recon to find areas to shoot the next day. Then, if you are a glutton for punishment like myself, you take it upon yourself to do night photography into the wee hours of the morning. The whole time in this park I didn't so much sleep as take naps in between sessions.

Floating over Badlands

It was, of course, all worth it though! I can only hope my future stops will be as rewarding as this one.......

Through the Bread Basket

Mid June 2013

Leaving New York State behind I did my best not to stop in the "boringness" known as Ohio and Iowa and got some miles behind me in an effort to get to the focus of this trip, the wild west. I did, however, make a short stop in Iowa in the town of Clive. I pulled the bike out and went for a late afternoon ride along their "greenbelt trail" into the next town of Waukee and back again. You really can't help but appreciate the small town life and mentality. These small town folk are either super lonely or just plain super friendly! They constantly wave hello for no good reason, even while passing along in their cars! In person if you catch their eye they unfailingly ask in an unmistakably sincere way, "How are you?" and then actually pause, genuinely caring to hear your answer! What is wrong with these people? Or what's right?

Herbert Hoover's Childhood Home

 Nebraska wasn't actually on itinerary of places to poke around, but things have a way of changing. Right in the middle of what is left of the Great Prairies you can find the Herbert Hoover Historic Site. I pulled off to have a look even though I'm not sure why he has been awarded his own historic site. Maybe it's due to the rumor I heard that he single handily built the Hoover Dam, although I suspect he had the help of at least a couple of mules! Maybe the site is a salute to his family's vacuum cleaner company. I seem to recall something about him being president of something. It must have been the family's business. So I guess that's a big deal! I really should have read the historic informative plates! Anyway, there you can check out their family's original tiny two room home and a few other nearly ancient buildings including the blacksmith's building complete with all the original metal working tools.  

(For more background:  http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/Presidents/site23.htm  )

If you are a really big fan of his vacuum cleaners you can also pay your respects to his grave site which sits right next to his wife's, who I suspect was the real motivation behind the vacuum cleaner! (For everyone who skipped History class, I'm kidding about the vacuums) All of this is surrounded by 76 acres of reclaimed Prairie grasslands just off of Interstate- 90. Originally there were 30 million acres of prairies covering 98% of the plains while today that has dwindled down to 3000 acres. The signage invites you to stroll this sample of grasslands to get "the feel" of what they have to offer. I never did get a chance to ask a ranger if I-90 had the same "feel"  back in the 1800's. For instance, I would think those old wooden wagon wheels on asphalt probably made even more of a disturbing din than the hum of today's tires. 

As the original settlers crossed this great land and reached the great plains, possibly via I-90, they stood in shock and awe of the flat landscape with nary a tree to be seen. At first they doubted the suitability of the land for farming, reasoning that the lack of trees didn't bode well. However, as soon as they planted they enjoyed great success and their doubts were quelled. The reality though, was that the soil was dense and tough to till. Farming never really took off until Mr. John Deere made the first steel plow and began manufacturing them. The future "Bread Basket" of America was born and the rest is history. 

Today crops aren't the only thing people are farming in the Heartland. Wind farms are becoming plentiful. This new species of windmill is a far cry from what the Dutch brought to America, growing to upwards of 300 feet!  I can't imagine the size of those seeds! Some people are against these windmill farms, perhaps because the immense draw on water resources required to grow them to such dizzying heights. Others think that they are an eyesore. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and taste is subjective, but I found them to be like a synchronistic ballet of giants putting on a hypnotic circular dance. Not the best entertainment while driving, but "watt (sic) are you going to do?"

Samuel R. McKelvie National Forest

Following the setting sun I continued on to Cody, Nebraska and spent the night at Samuel R. McKelvie National Forest with not a human soul in site. Tic-tic-tic-tic-tic.... No I'm not counting seconds, I'm counting the number of blood sucking ticks I had to remove from crawling up my pants every 10 yards or so!

 Besides whatever eats ticks, there are two other things lacking in this national park:

1) Warning signs to watch your step lest you sink a foot into the plethora of cow patties!

2) Trees: there is a serious dearth of trees for something referred to a "National Forest".  It's actually more of a "National Grazing Area", but it was home for the night.

One positive exception to note, especially for all you extreme thrill seekers, is the reservoir. It has a 20 foot drain which draws water down a couple hundred feet or so into an irrigation canal. Passing by I noticed that someone had pulled the plug out of the drain. So if you are looking for one hell of a slip-n-slide you should head there before they replace the drain plug or all the water drains out!

The next stop: The Badlands of South Dakota, where the real adventure begins......

Someone pulled the drain plug!

Searching for King Kong in the Empire State

June 2013

Well for all of you who passed geography you know that heading west out of Vermont lands you smack dab in New York State. Now if I could only remember back to those geography classes and recall from which empire it derived the nickname "Empire State"? 

Eastern New York State is home to Saratoga Springs, but for those who prefer to stay dry and have an interest in history or warfare there is the Saratoga National Historic Park. It, of course, commemorates the turning point of the American Revolution. I don't have a burning interest in either war or early American history per se, but I  enjoyed the park and would recommend a visit if you're in the area. You can walk, bike or drive around the battlefields and listen to the historical recordings at the 10 different highlighted points. You can even dial up further narrations on your cell phone while checking out the revolutionary canons and studying the war tactics and battle lines as they were actually formed back in those most critical times of 'these here United States of America'.  

Additionally, there are the various monuments to some civil war soldiers including the "Unknown Boot Memorial" commemorating the bravery of Benedict Arnold who was shot in the leg during the battle of Saratoga. That was prior to his infamous act of treason when he conspired to turn over West Point to the British. Apparently monuments are irrevocable.

(For more info.:   http://www.nps.gov/sara/historyculture/index.htm)

National War Memorial

Sticking with the theme of the day, war and its results, I paid a visit to the National Cemetery of Saratoga which is always a somber expedition. To complete the trifecta for the day I also visited the National War Memorial located at a "Non-National" cemetery. As I was taken some photos of an intriguing Vault built into a hill I was approached by the current president of the cemetery and official grounds keeper who happened to be mowing the lawns nearby. He asked if I would like to see the inside of the vault which was used to hold caskets until such a time as they could be buried. Sometimes holding the dead weeks or months until the weather allowed for their burial. Although I knew it was no longer used I was none the less eager to have a rare peek inside such an edifice. One can never know what to expect in such a situation, but I half expected to enter and have my hairs stand up, sense ghosts, or maybe be taken aback by an unusual smell or feel of the place. Surprisingly the experience was more or less blasé, but I still felt privileged to have been granted entrance and according to my host I'm one of very few to capture the interior photographically.  

Purgatory?

An Ithaca Fall.

My original plans from there were to head to Niagara Falls. Although the weather there is always dodgy the next few days were shaping up to be particularly unpleasant. Since I didn't feel like subjecting my cameras to anymore downpours I decided to skip the falls to try and gain some momentum heading west. 

My momentum was curbed when I made a pit stop in Ithaca to visit some friends I acquired while on the job. Matt and Marcy own a couple of restaurants in Ithaca and I just happened to have married them on the yacht I was captaining for the last few years. Well, I didn't actually "Marry them", the minister did that. But they did get married on my watch and I did happen to do double duty as their wedding photographer. 

Fighting some insane traffic due to construction in the small downtown area I started to stress about whether or not I would make it to the gas station before the fumes ran out. Luckily I did make it and to my surprise the gas station even had micro beers on tap!! Just in case I needed to calm my nerves I guess. College towns!

I mainly popped in just thinking I'd say hello, get a bite to eat at the "Mahogany Grill" and mosey on, but they wouldn't hear of it. They insisted that I stay at least a few days if not a week or so until my Ex-Boss got back into town. Well, I couldn't say no, so I did spend a few days there having some nice dinners, checking out the various waterfalls of the area, attending a couple of parties and getting introductions to some of Ithaca's most eligible bachelorettes. 

Another of Ithaca's Falls.

Unfortunately rainy weather was marching back upon us again so I made the decision to start out again in search of the sun. Once again I managed to slip away unattached. Pointing Mage west I'm full of determination and set my sites for the Heartland......

Trekking in Vermont- Part 2

After hiking and camping in the Killington, Vermont area I ventured Southwest into Bennington. It's one of those towns with a "Main Street" which is still undeniably "Main Street". A place where unlike certain fictitious Boston haunts, everyone still does know your name. Unless you're an outsider like me. Then they refer to you kindly as "friend" and make you feel like you live there, or at least like you'd really like to live there. A place with which  anyone who isn't a self professed "city lover" is bound to fall in love. 

Stopping in to replace my worn out ATM card, I question Emily about the vividly decorated large cat statues all around town. She explains that the " Catamount" is a nearly extinct predator which happens to be the town's artistic focus for the year. Fiberglass statues of the cats are made available and various artists add their color and finishing touches to them. At the end of summer they are auctioned off for a good cause. Two questions pop into my mind: 1) How "nearly" extinct are they? and 2) Are these purported cats as big as the statues? (Because the statues are the size of oversized panthers!)  Never having heard of such a creature I'm skeptical as to whether they are fictional or non-fictional, but intrigued. As someone who is about to camp out on the outskirts of their town I'm understandably somewhat concerned! Especially now that I have thoughts dancing in my head along the lines of "Werewolves in London".

After checking out the Bennington Monument I decided  that I'm probably as likely to run into a Catamount as I am to swim with the Loch Ness Monster so I back track a bit east along State Road 9 and turn down Forest Road 74. It's not real wilderness camping, but it sure is convenient to drive down a road a mile or two and find a place to pull off and camp that feels like you're in the middle of nowhere, even if a huge carnivorous cat could be lying there in wait. As a consolation there is a great fire ring and more than enough fire wood within a couple of dozen yards to keep things cozy for the evening. Hopefully Catamounts are afraid of fire!

Bennington Monument

After retrieving my allotment of wood I decide to do some trailblazing. Literally. Hiking without a trail  and going where no man has gone before.... Probably! Okay I admit that I'm no Lewis or Clark, but there wasn't a trail, I swear! Having proved my "Manliness" to myself I venture back before I get lost and start crying like a child. I head towards the beaver pond, but alas find no beaver. Just once I'd like to find some good beaver in the woods , but apparently you have to trap and import your own.

Settling in for the evening I stoke up the fire. There is something very special about the campfire, fire in general. I don't want to come across as a pyromaniac, but when was the last time you sat before a campfire? It's mesmerizing. Some say god creates and it is not my intent to debate that notion. However, it is undeniable that fire creates. Fire burns, fire heals, fire destroys, fire creates. Within the bellies of stars, fire creates the elements, the building blocks of all material things. Without fire there would be no cause to ever build a fire place. Man would never cook or forge the steel used to create tools. Without it the Iron wouldn't even be in existence to forge. Steam and Petrol  engines would never be invented let alone do work. It is fire that facilitates the life cycle from start to end, from creation to destruction. And back to destruction. And again to Creation. To every season a turn.  To every cycle a beginning without end and no starting point.  A Cycle. A Circle. A Zero. A whole, empty yet existing in nothingness. Circumscribing nil and containing It. 

If you take away everything, what do you have? Nothing is what you have! Nothing! No Thing! Nothing is substantial. I don't mean "nothing is substantial"! I mean "nothing" IS Substantial! Only one thing in the universe is substantial, "nothing".  In that lies the secret. But don't tell anyone. Anyway, they wouldn't understand, 'nothing' is hard to grasp.

Forgive me, fire can take you to some strange places.....