I didn't have any plan what so ever for arrival in Bangkok, so it was nice of Zach to let me borrow his Thailand travel book during the flight. Located some cheap places to stay and decided to head to the "Banglamphu" area. I hopped on the airport bus and got dropped off at Khoa San Rd, "Backpacker Central".
Total culture shock after being in India which in my opinion stands for:
I 'll
N ever
D o
I t
A gain !!!
Burger King, McD's, 7-11's and vendors everywhere selling knock offs. It was late at night, but I had no problem finding a room for about $4. After a stroll around the area I crashed on a pillow thick and hard enough to send King Kong to the chiropractor.
In the morning I replaced my Bolle's which got crushed on the plane with a pair of "authentic" Oakley's for $4!! Then I had to put on my thinking cap. Now that I'm half way thru the trip I need to come up with a plan for the second half. So many options, so much to consider, no idea what I really want to do. So I spent most of the day going from one travel agent to the other (of which there is no shortage of) gathering information with which to sort out some kind of plan. Spent the evening people watching with the hope that something would click inside my brain.
Around 5:30 am there is a knock on my door. Time to go to work! You won't believe this but I got drafted into the Navy as a pilot!! Well actually, I got accepted as an extra to play a Navy pilot for a movie called "Rescue Dawn". It's starring Christian Bale (the latest Batman, American Psycho) and directed by Werven Herzog who is apparently one of Germany's top directors. Both by the way are super nice guys. In fact, Herzog took the time before and after the shoot to shake everyone of the 400 extras' hands and wish us "Good Luck"!! Definately not from Hollywood!
The movie is about a German born US Navy pilot who was shot down over Laos just prior to our "official" involvement in Vietnam. So most people never even knew about the event. "Deter" is the only pilot ever to escape and make it back to our lines by himself. Look for me in the very last scene where the carrier crew is welcoming him back. It should be out next summer. I doubt it will be a blockbuster though :(
So on the bus down to Pattaya I meet Josh (Germany) and Donald (Canada) and we take in the nice Thailand scenery which otherwise I probably wouldn't have gotten to see.
So all in all I wind up spending a whole week in Bangkok. Much too long, but I need to clear the remnants of India out of my lungs and airways before I can go scuba diving. So along with Josh, Jonas and the Englih crew: Neil, Morgan, Rory and Fran I spend the week partying and picking up cheap clothing.
I should mention that Bangkok is Sleazy with a capital "S". I'm not Mr. Innocent, but I have to admit that I'm pretty disgusted with this place. Finding a nice Thai girl is next to impossible here between the prostitutes, thieves and "lady-boys". Every day I check the mirror to make sure someone hasn't tattoed "Horny" on my forehead. Thai's are constantly trying to drive you into a sex club or a Ping Pong Show. (An all female sport, use your imagination!)
On night we decided we wanted to go out and experience the night life where Thai's hang out as opposed to tourists. So a little gay Thai fashion designer who was staying at our guest house suggests an area of Bangkok to check out. I don't know if it was his idea of a joke, but we wound up in a place that was just like Khoa San Rd. but 10 times bigger! So we checked out the local tits and ass for a while and left. But of course the taxi drivers there and back could not refrain for more than five seconds from asking something akin to "You go to Ping Pong??" Over and Over and Over...
But it wasn't all debauchery. Even though I was surrounded by some truly professional drunks I managed to keep my liver intact and see some culture. One day I hired a Tut-tut to drive me around and check out the city and some of the Temples. No shortage of them. Some really impressive Buddhas and buildings, although I can't help but think Buddha is rolling in his grave.
Before leaving Bangkok I was able to hear some of Jonas' music and help him with a drum track he was having difficulty ironing out. Now it's time to get the hell out of Sodom and go down to the island beaches. Koh Phangnan here I come..... (pics coming shortly)
Thursday, September 08, 2005
Friday, August 26, 2005
Last Days in Mcleod Ganj
Ofer has decided to take of for Rishakesh. I considered going there also, but really don't feel like taking the 16 hour bus ride out there. So we played our last games of Backgammon and he took a rickshaw down to Mcleod. I chose to run down. I beat him there.
After he bought a handmade drum it was time to say goodbye to my longest term comrade of this trip. Four new Israeli arrivals were at the guest house, two of them had colds. I seem to have caught it also. India has not been kind health wise. But that's to be expected in India. The next morning I met a nice Dutch couple who moved in.
Went and bought my own drum which helped kill time as I paused to play while the sky opened up on my trek back to the guest house. I was sorry to see Ofer take off, but happy to replace him with a couple of cute Israeli girls, Adi and Maya. Kudos to Adi for handing me my first chess defeat of the trip. Another rainy day.
Sat for a while and listened to the French National Geographic photograper play guitar and sing songs a little out of time. But some classics which brought back memories of Dad's playing when I was young: The Boxer, CCR, etc...
The next morning we were woken by a trumpet and a drum playing some traditional Hindu tune right outside my window. It's some sort of local Holiday and Shanti invites Enzo and I to have brunch. He goes off to work, but Vinod takes us to the "old house", an adobe structure which has been in the family 100 years. In the winter they move here for warmth. Ducking thru the low entrance we exchange greetings and the ladies serve us up delicious spiced potatoes with Chipoti (bread) and an interesting and tasty hot green and brown, semi crunchy dish made from a single leaf plant that grows locally. After that they dish us out a heaping portion of what reminded me of overdone kraft mac and cheese with more milk than cheese. And rice instead of pasta. Later on joined Adi and Maya for lunch and they taught me a card game called "Yanev" (at least that's the Hebrew name)
So my last full day in Mcleod has arrived and today I'm awoken by someone playing the flute. You don't need an alarm clock around here! We enjoyed about 2 minutes of sun and then the clouds filled in again. Monsoon is supposed to end any day now, but the last 3 days have been a washed out mess, preventing the trek I wanted to do before leaving. Oh well.So it's finally time to say farewell to Mcleod Ganj and my Dharmkot family. I paid my rent, gave Babiloo a 50 cent Euro to add to his 3 coin collection, presented Vinod my much treasured Nashbar windproof top and chilled on the terrace for the last time.Before heading down I made my way to the Vipassana Center and made a donation. Not much since I don't really like the way they do the course, but enough to cover the expenses for 10 days. And so all that is left is a trip to Dehli........
I had to take a rickshaw to the bus because the road is still washed out. We were asked to pay 10rps per bag which a German lady refused to pay and would not shut up about. Technically she is right, but she obviously doesn't get the fact that arguing incessantly over 25 cents is really disruptive to everyone elses peace and quiet.
I sat next to an English bloke and we talked about Vipassana and rolled on thru an ear popping descent into the Indian plain.
I arrived in Delhi about 7:15am and wandered thru PaharGanj in search of a room. Settled on the Anruk Hotel for 170rps. Had some breakfast and read the Indian paper. Apparently India is really screwed up.!!!! Problem after problem and corruption piled on corruption.
In the afternoon I took a stroll past Laxmi Narayan Birla Marichar (Hindu Temple) as well as a Buddhist Temple right next door. A snake charmer cornered me so I took some pics. Then he demanded 500 rps ($12) which was the best Indian joke I had heard yet. I gave him 10 rps. Continuing on I went thru Talktora Garden and it was nice to actually see something pleasant in Delhi. Made it back to the hotel just after dark and set up a wake up call and a taxi for the following morning.
Got to the airport at 7:30am and at first the flight was shown as being on time, but a few minutes later it came up as delayed. This was a good thing though since my ticket showed a departure time of 10:20am, but the actual rescheduled departure time was supposed to be 7:40am!!!!
It actually left at 1 pm. That's Air India. I killed time talking with a Spanish couple and a couple of American guys. Zach was kind enough to let me borrow his travel book for thailand so I was able to get some idea of where to go when I landed. In fact, he also gave me "The Alchemist" to read. (Which I haven't yet down.)
So here we go. Here comes Thailand....... :)
After he bought a handmade drum it was time to say goodbye to my longest term comrade of this trip. Four new Israeli arrivals were at the guest house, two of them had colds. I seem to have caught it also. India has not been kind health wise. But that's to be expected in India. The next morning I met a nice Dutch couple who moved in.
Went and bought my own drum which helped kill time as I paused to play while the sky opened up on my trek back to the guest house. I was sorry to see Ofer take off, but happy to replace him with a couple of cute Israeli girls, Adi and Maya. Kudos to Adi for handing me my first chess defeat of the trip. Another rainy day.
Sat for a while and listened to the French National Geographic photograper play guitar and sing songs a little out of time. But some classics which brought back memories of Dad's playing when I was young: The Boxer, CCR, etc...
The next morning we were woken by a trumpet and a drum playing some traditional Hindu tune right outside my window. It's some sort of local Holiday and Shanti invites Enzo and I to have brunch. He goes off to work, but Vinod takes us to the "old house", an adobe structure which has been in the family 100 years. In the winter they move here for warmth. Ducking thru the low entrance we exchange greetings and the ladies serve us up delicious spiced potatoes with Chipoti (bread) and an interesting and tasty hot green and brown, semi crunchy dish made from a single leaf plant that grows locally. After that they dish us out a heaping portion of what reminded me of overdone kraft mac and cheese with more milk than cheese. And rice instead of pasta. Later on joined Adi and Maya for lunch and they taught me a card game called "Yanev" (at least that's the Hebrew name)
So my last full day in Mcleod has arrived and today I'm awoken by someone playing the flute. You don't need an alarm clock around here! We enjoyed about 2 minutes of sun and then the clouds filled in again. Monsoon is supposed to end any day now, but the last 3 days have been a washed out mess, preventing the trek I wanted to do before leaving. Oh well.So it's finally time to say farewell to Mcleod Ganj and my Dharmkot family. I paid my rent, gave Babiloo a 50 cent Euro to add to his 3 coin collection, presented Vinod my much treasured Nashbar windproof top and chilled on the terrace for the last time.Before heading down I made my way to the Vipassana Center and made a donation. Not much since I don't really like the way they do the course, but enough to cover the expenses for 10 days. And so all that is left is a trip to Dehli........
I had to take a rickshaw to the bus because the road is still washed out. We were asked to pay 10rps per bag which a German lady refused to pay and would not shut up about. Technically she is right, but she obviously doesn't get the fact that arguing incessantly over 25 cents is really disruptive to everyone elses peace and quiet.
I sat next to an English bloke and we talked about Vipassana and rolled on thru an ear popping descent into the Indian plain.
I arrived in Delhi about 7:15am and wandered thru PaharGanj in search of a room. Settled on the Anruk Hotel for 170rps. Had some breakfast and read the Indian paper. Apparently India is really screwed up.!!!! Problem after problem and corruption piled on corruption.
In the afternoon I took a stroll past Laxmi Narayan Birla Marichar (Hindu Temple) as well as a Buddhist Temple right next door. A snake charmer cornered me so I took some pics. Then he demanded 500 rps ($12) which was the best Indian joke I had heard yet. I gave him 10 rps. Continuing on I went thru Talktora Garden and it was nice to actually see something pleasant in Delhi. Made it back to the hotel just after dark and set up a wake up call and a taxi for the following morning.
Got to the airport at 7:30am and at first the flight was shown as being on time, but a few minutes later it came up as delayed. This was a good thing though since my ticket showed a departure time of 10:20am, but the actual rescheduled departure time was supposed to be 7:40am!!!!
It actually left at 1 pm. That's Air India. I killed time talking with a Spanish couple and a couple of American guys. Zach was kind enough to let me borrow his travel book for thailand so I was able to get some idea of where to go when I landed. In fact, he also gave me "The Alchemist" to read. (Which I haven't yet down.)
So here we go. Here comes Thailand....... :)
Thursday, August 18, 2005
Amritsar- The Golden Temple
The Golden Temple
Unlike last morning my alarm actually roused me from sleep this morning. Ofer and I walked down to McLeod again in the pitch black only to find there again will be no bus due to the landslide. So we joined an Israeli couple and took a taxi the back way to Dharmashala.
The bus left from there promptly at 5am and we had room to relax for a while. It filled up later on though and twice during the journey I had 3 adults and one child crammed into three narrow seats. The last kid was bus-sick and throwing up!
Arriving in Amritsar, we took a bicycle rickshaw to the Golden Temple. First on our agenda was to find a place to stay. You can, in fact, stay and even eat for free at the temple, but we didn't feel like taking advantage of the Sihk hospitality. We settle on the Sita Niwas Hotel.
So Ofer wants a smoke so we find what appears to be a park and take a seat. A young boy comes over and with broken English and hand gestures stops us from a particularly bad social and legal no-no. We are actually on Temple property and there is a strict no smoking zone within 100 meters of the property!
After some lunch we headed over to the Golden Temple. Since your head must be covered we took our zip-off pant legs and placed them on our heads. Then we deposited our shoes, washed our hands and finally convince the gaurd we weren't bringing in anything unholy besides our corporeal selves. The Temple is impressive and indeed "golden". The temple itself stands in the middle of a square lake filled with Holy Water which the faithful drink AND bathe in! Bordering the lake on all four sides is a marble boardwalk and edging this are immaculately white buildings which enclose the whole complex.We started to walk around, but quickly realized that we were the only ones going counter clockwise. Oops! Ok, so heading in the right direction we did a slow lap around the walkway. At one point we stopped to take photos and attracted a very large group of friendly and curious spectators. Everyone in Amritsar seems friendly and curious. We took a round of pics with at least 20 Indians and made our way to the Temple entrance.
The inside, as one might imagine, is also decked in gold and you discover that the holy music being heard all over the Temple grounds originates from a three man band playing from the center of the temple.
Next on the agenda was to secure a ride to the border for the evening cerimonies. Eleven of us crammed into a jeep and after about an hour we arrived at the border. Along for the ride was: a few Indians, a Canadian, 3 Germans, and Alex & Alaya, bro and sis from France. A short walk brings us to a crowd which leads to a que which leads ~5000 spectators into the bleachered observation area. As foreign dignitaries we were sat in the VIP section.
While the soldiers do some well advised stretching an emcee gets things going. Various Hindustania cheers ring out, call and answer. Flags are furling! Some of them really get into it. Although they stop short of "doing the wave" they are constantly jumping out of there seats to cheer. It's difficult to see over to the Pakistani side and impossible to hear, but I assume the scene is very much the same on the other side of the border.
After about 30 minutes of this the soldiers steal the show. About 15 guards with funny hats participate on either side. I think the Pakistanis with their bad ass black uniforms have the upper hand on the Indians. The cerimony itself is hilarious! They are all bonafide graduates of Monty Pythons School of Funny Walking. They start by all marching in line at a very fast pace with flailing limbs towards the border. At the gate they do a little jiggy and all march back to where they started. Then they all get to do it solo. Each shaking hands with their counterpart on the other side of the border.
After each has had their turn to shine, they begin the lowering of the flags. They lowered ever so slowly, but once they are down they are swiftly folded and just as swiftly marched back to their respective resting places for the evening. After the flags are gone the show is over and the Sikhs and Hindus on each side rush the gate. To greet or perhaps taunt their neighbors. It would be interesting to know what kind of dialog such a nationalistic show of peace & friendship generates between peoples of two nuclear powers on shaky ground?! On the walk back to the jeep we are approached every 8-10 feet by someone selling pictures and music Cds related to the show.
Back in Amristar we joined the French siblings for dinner. Somewhere there are a pair of marketing directors blowing a fuse. In this restaraunt they serve both Coke and Pepsi. And of course if you order a Coke you will inevitably get a Pepsi and vice versa.
After dinner we all went back to see the Golden Temple at night. Very nice. We took some more pics and then said Au Revoir to our French Friends.
We took breakfast at the hotel and despite the amazed looks we got, decided to walk to the bus stand since we had time to kill. It was hot and kind of far, but along the way we saw some things of interest. Including summer school and some interesting school buses. Tiny rickshaws crammed with tiny school children and their book bags strapped all over the vehicle. One school bus was a minivan which a group of students had to chase down after push starting it.
On the way home I got to see some nice scenery and chill to some of Ofer's Cds. As we approached Dharmashala the clouds hung low and dark. As we arrived it was raining hard! Welcome home. Capped of the evening as usual.
Unlike last morning my alarm actually roused me from sleep this morning. Ofer and I walked down to McLeod again in the pitch black only to find there again will be no bus due to the landslide. So we joined an Israeli couple and took a taxi the back way to Dharmashala.
The bus left from there promptly at 5am and we had room to relax for a while. It filled up later on though and twice during the journey I had 3 adults and one child crammed into three narrow seats. The last kid was bus-sick and throwing up!
Arriving in Amritsar, we took a bicycle rickshaw to the Golden Temple. First on our agenda was to find a place to stay. You can, in fact, stay and even eat for free at the temple, but we didn't feel like taking advantage of the Sihk hospitality. We settle on the Sita Niwas Hotel.
So Ofer wants a smoke so we find what appears to be a park and take a seat. A young boy comes over and with broken English and hand gestures stops us from a particularly bad social and legal no-no. We are actually on Temple property and there is a strict no smoking zone within 100 meters of the property!
After some lunch we headed over to the Golden Temple. Since your head must be covered we took our zip-off pant legs and placed them on our heads. Then we deposited our shoes, washed our hands and finally convince the gaurd we weren't bringing in anything unholy besides our corporeal selves. The Temple is impressive and indeed "golden". The temple itself stands in the middle of a square lake filled with Holy Water which the faithful drink AND bathe in! Bordering the lake on all four sides is a marble boardwalk and edging this are immaculately white buildings which enclose the whole complex.We started to walk around, but quickly realized that we were the only ones going counter clockwise. Oops! Ok, so heading in the right direction we did a slow lap around the walkway. At one point we stopped to take photos and attracted a very large group of friendly and curious spectators. Everyone in Amritsar seems friendly and curious. We took a round of pics with at least 20 Indians and made our way to the Temple entrance.
The inside, as one might imagine, is also decked in gold and you discover that the holy music being heard all over the Temple grounds originates from a three man band playing from the center of the temple.
Next on the agenda was to secure a ride to the border for the evening cerimonies. Eleven of us crammed into a jeep and after about an hour we arrived at the border. Along for the ride was: a few Indians, a Canadian, 3 Germans, and Alex & Alaya, bro and sis from France. A short walk brings us to a crowd which leads to a que which leads ~5000 spectators into the bleachered observation area. As foreign dignitaries we were sat in the VIP section.
While the soldiers do some well advised stretching an emcee gets things going. Various Hindustania cheers ring out, call and answer. Flags are furling! Some of them really get into it. Although they stop short of "doing the wave" they are constantly jumping out of there seats to cheer. It's difficult to see over to the Pakistani side and impossible to hear, but I assume the scene is very much the same on the other side of the border.
After about 30 minutes of this the soldiers steal the show. About 15 guards with funny hats participate on either side. I think the Pakistanis with their bad ass black uniforms have the upper hand on the Indians. The cerimony itself is hilarious! They are all bonafide graduates of Monty Pythons School of Funny Walking. They start by all marching in line at a very fast pace with flailing limbs towards the border. At the gate they do a little jiggy and all march back to where they started. Then they all get to do it solo. Each shaking hands with their counterpart on the other side of the border.
After each has had their turn to shine, they begin the lowering of the flags. They lowered ever so slowly, but once they are down they are swiftly folded and just as swiftly marched back to their respective resting places for the evening. After the flags are gone the show is over and the Sikhs and Hindus on each side rush the gate. To greet or perhaps taunt their neighbors. It would be interesting to know what kind of dialog such a nationalistic show of peace & friendship generates between peoples of two nuclear powers on shaky ground?! On the walk back to the jeep we are approached every 8-10 feet by someone selling pictures and music Cds related to the show.
Back in Amristar we joined the French siblings for dinner. Somewhere there are a pair of marketing directors blowing a fuse. In this restaraunt they serve both Coke and Pepsi. And of course if you order a Coke you will inevitably get a Pepsi and vice versa.
After dinner we all went back to see the Golden Temple at night. Very nice. We took some more pics and then said Au Revoir to our French Friends.
We took breakfast at the hotel and despite the amazed looks we got, decided to walk to the bus stand since we had time to kill. It was hot and kind of far, but along the way we saw some things of interest. Including summer school and some interesting school buses. Tiny rickshaws crammed with tiny school children and their book bags strapped all over the vehicle. One school bus was a minivan which a group of students had to chase down after push starting it.
On the way home I got to see some nice scenery and chill to some of Ofer's Cds. As we approached Dharmashala the clouds hung low and dark. As we arrived it was raining hard! Welcome home. Capped of the evening as usual.
Saturday, August 13, 2005
7/27/05-7/31/05. My stomach slowly but surely got better. Spent most of this week hanging out with Ofer, Ishy (also an Israeli from the course), and his English buddy, Ollie. Also met Barry (AZ) from the course. He is an author, his first book was about Astrology and Psychology. He is now writing his second book based on Astrology with Vipassana. And he is practising hard.
Met Suter (Holland) in the neighborhood. He agrees with me regarding the Goenka course and is now more into practising Zen. Things are really quiet at the Shanti house. Just me and Jonathon left from the old crew. Meditating a little thru this time.
Bombay is flooded and since it is the electronic banking hub of India, an attempt to get money at the Atm is thwarted. We all spend this week killing time: playing chess and backgammon, watching movies and taking day hikes/trips to Mcleod and Bhagsu.
Barry has sold everything and is making India his home. Ollie is going to be in India for two years in total. Ishy is just about finished with his trip and will head back to Israel soon. Ofer leaves for Bangkok 3 days before me to finish his year long trek and return to Israel. I am just starting to look forward to Thailand...
8/1/05-8/3/05
Ofer and I decide to take a 3 day Reiki course. Reiki= Universal Life Force Energy. A natural healing power available to all, if only you now how! Interesting, but like all things requires a lot of hard to come by practice.
On the second day my stomach problem returned! Felt pretty bad , but after the course I did feel better. Day three was a bit better, but not great. That night we were still in Bhagsu and Ofer wanted to meet a girl up the mountain. So with some very vague directions we begin the hike. What a hike is was to be! In the dark I think we forged new trails, mostly in circles. But everything was very quiet up there and we never did find The 3rd Eye Guest house. Instead we wound up making a huge sweaty loop back to Bhagsu only to have to continue on to Dharamcot! Finished the night cooling down at the Trek & Dine.
I slept in the next morning and have more energy today, but things below are even a little more uncertain. Enzo, a German from the old crew, came back today from Varansi and gave me some herbal tablets to try. Hopefully they do some good. Chilled today, watched "I Robot", made use of the toilets, and read "From Heaven Lake" by Vikram Seth. A nice travel book about travel by land thru China, Tibet, Nepal on to India.
Next day and the stomach is still wrecked. I come back from the bathroom and Vinod has set me up with some milk chai. Not the best thing for the gut, but I can't be rude. Sat and talked with Enzo about his status as an artist who is lost at sea. He lives in Berlin with an artist community and he paints a warm picture of artistic cooperation coming together for a greater creatativity. The government actually pays artists for their art. Albeit, not much. I learn that he is now into film and video. In fact, he is lugging around a hopped up dual Pentium PC (w/o monitor) for his video editing. I'd like to see his work, but he doesn't have any to share. Instead we share breakfast at the Chai shop. I stick with salt crackers and a coke for my belly.
Feeling better I one again get to enjoy one of Rita's omlette sandwiches. Wow. Check out the sun. Where did that come from. I take the opportunity to remove my shirt and notify my body that summer is not over. Down in Mcleod a young boy tried to trade a hand made drum for my Casio watch. No can do. But I might go back and buy one. Ran into who else but Ofer in Mcleod so I whooped him at chess a couple of times (to be fair, he beats me often at backgammon). Then a movie double header. "Master and Commander" and the late movie: Star Wars III. Finally an episode worthy of the Star Wars trademark.
Today I woke and met a new/old guest named Enrique (Venezuela). He was here before and had been storing his almost new Honda Motorcycle which oddly won't start after only 5 weeks of sitting. Apparently, a valve is stuck. A push start should take care of that, and later does. After breakfast, Vinod took Enzo and I on a nice hike up to some waterfalls around the northwest ridge. Swollen streams bring the monsoon waters down into clear cool pools.
Incidentily, it's quite remarkable that you can hike for hours, be in the middle of no where and turn a corner to find a chai shop staring you in the face. All over, in the most remote and unlikely places. Today, the chai shop here is unmanned though. Made it back to the house just as the monsoon rain came cascading down again. I was introduced to a couple of Russian Israelis at the Trek&Dine and we watched "Fight Club".
Ofer and I were going to go to Amritsar today, but last night we decided that we didn't feel like getting up @ 3am for the bus. So we are going to go this coming morning. Instead we form a plan to check out the Bhagsu Waterfall. We had to wait untill about 2:30 for the rain to stop and the sun to peak through. We weren't sure which ridges it is between so we had to climb onto a roof over looking the community pool to get our bearings. After a quick hike thru town and into the nearest valley we arrived and climbed up a precarious rock slide to sit and enjoy the views as well as some semi famous Bhagsu Cake. Made it an early night since it was to be an early morning.
We were to meet at 3:30am. I slept thru my alarm and woke @ 3:31am. Threw on some clothes and met Ofer 10 minutes late. Torches alit we walked down in the otherwise pitch black to Mcleod. A taxi driver told us that our bus to Dharamcot wouldn't be coming tonight. Familar with this angle we didn't take him at his word. Instead we waited untill 5am, but the bus never came. Apparently there has been a landslide between Mcleod and Dharamshala and there really won't be a bus today.
We slumber back up the mountain on foot because all the richshaw drivers are asleep, mumble "see ya laters" at the top and return to our respective guest houses. The sky has lightened up quite a bit by this time so I decide to brew some tea and watch the sun rise over the mountain.
After greeting the morning sun I went to bed only to be awoken at 10am by Enrique arguing with Vinod over 30 rupees. 30 Rupees! For crying out loud, I'll give you the 60 cents, just shut up. Anyway, I'm up now so I get out of bed. I decide to brew another cup of tea and wind up finish reading From Heaven Lake. The rest of the day passed easily like all the previous.
Met Suter (Holland) in the neighborhood. He agrees with me regarding the Goenka course and is now more into practising Zen. Things are really quiet at the Shanti house. Just me and Jonathon left from the old crew. Meditating a little thru this time.
Bombay is flooded and since it is the electronic banking hub of India, an attempt to get money at the Atm is thwarted. We all spend this week killing time: playing chess and backgammon, watching movies and taking day hikes/trips to Mcleod and Bhagsu.
Barry has sold everything and is making India his home. Ollie is going to be in India for two years in total. Ishy is just about finished with his trip and will head back to Israel soon. Ofer leaves for Bangkok 3 days before me to finish his year long trek and return to Israel. I am just starting to look forward to Thailand...
8/1/05-8/3/05
Ofer and I decide to take a 3 day Reiki course. Reiki= Universal Life Force Energy. A natural healing power available to all, if only you now how! Interesting, but like all things requires a lot of hard to come by practice.
On the second day my stomach problem returned! Felt pretty bad , but after the course I did feel better. Day three was a bit better, but not great. That night we were still in Bhagsu and Ofer wanted to meet a girl up the mountain. So with some very vague directions we begin the hike. What a hike is was to be! In the dark I think we forged new trails, mostly in circles. But everything was very quiet up there and we never did find The 3rd Eye Guest house. Instead we wound up making a huge sweaty loop back to Bhagsu only to have to continue on to Dharamcot! Finished the night cooling down at the Trek & Dine.
I slept in the next morning and have more energy today, but things below are even a little more uncertain. Enzo, a German from the old crew, came back today from Varansi and gave me some herbal tablets to try. Hopefully they do some good. Chilled today, watched "I Robot", made use of the toilets, and read "From Heaven Lake" by Vikram Seth. A nice travel book about travel by land thru China, Tibet, Nepal on to India.
Next day and the stomach is still wrecked. I come back from the bathroom and Vinod has set me up with some milk chai. Not the best thing for the gut, but I can't be rude. Sat and talked with Enzo about his status as an artist who is lost at sea. He lives in Berlin with an artist community and he paints a warm picture of artistic cooperation coming together for a greater creatativity. The government actually pays artists for their art. Albeit, not much. I learn that he is now into film and video. In fact, he is lugging around a hopped up dual Pentium PC (w/o monitor) for his video editing. I'd like to see his work, but he doesn't have any to share. Instead we share breakfast at the Chai shop. I stick with salt crackers and a coke for my belly.
Feeling better I one again get to enjoy one of Rita's omlette sandwiches. Wow. Check out the sun. Where did that come from. I take the opportunity to remove my shirt and notify my body that summer is not over. Down in Mcleod a young boy tried to trade a hand made drum for my Casio watch. No can do. But I might go back and buy one. Ran into who else but Ofer in Mcleod so I whooped him at chess a couple of times (to be fair, he beats me often at backgammon). Then a movie double header. "Master and Commander" and the late movie: Star Wars III. Finally an episode worthy of the Star Wars trademark.
Today I woke and met a new/old guest named Enrique (Venezuela). He was here before and had been storing his almost new Honda Motorcycle which oddly won't start after only 5 weeks of sitting. Apparently, a valve is stuck. A push start should take care of that, and later does. After breakfast, Vinod took Enzo and I on a nice hike up to some waterfalls around the northwest ridge. Swollen streams bring the monsoon waters down into clear cool pools.
Incidentily, it's quite remarkable that you can hike for hours, be in the middle of no where and turn a corner to find a chai shop staring you in the face. All over, in the most remote and unlikely places. Today, the chai shop here is unmanned though. Made it back to the house just as the monsoon rain came cascading down again. I was introduced to a couple of Russian Israelis at the Trek&Dine and we watched "Fight Club".
Ofer and I were going to go to Amritsar today, but last night we decided that we didn't feel like getting up @ 3am for the bus. So we are going to go this coming morning. Instead we form a plan to check out the Bhagsu Waterfall. We had to wait untill about 2:30 for the rain to stop and the sun to peak through. We weren't sure which ridges it is between so we had to climb onto a roof over looking the community pool to get our bearings. After a quick hike thru town and into the nearest valley we arrived and climbed up a precarious rock slide to sit and enjoy the views as well as some semi famous Bhagsu Cake. Made it an early night since it was to be an early morning.
We were to meet at 3:30am. I slept thru my alarm and woke @ 3:31am. Threw on some clothes and met Ofer 10 minutes late. Torches alit we walked down in the otherwise pitch black to Mcleod. A taxi driver told us that our bus to Dharamcot wouldn't be coming tonight. Familar with this angle we didn't take him at his word. Instead we waited untill 5am, but the bus never came. Apparently there has been a landslide between Mcleod and Dharamshala and there really won't be a bus today.
We slumber back up the mountain on foot because all the richshaw drivers are asleep, mumble "see ya laters" at the top and return to our respective guest houses. The sky has lightened up quite a bit by this time so I decide to brew some tea and watch the sun rise over the mountain.
After greeting the morning sun I went to bed only to be awoken at 10am by Enrique arguing with Vinod over 30 rupees. 30 Rupees! For crying out loud, I'll give you the 60 cents, just shut up. Anyway, I'm up now so I get out of bed. I decide to brew another cup of tea and wind up finish reading From Heaven Lake. The rest of the day passed easily like all the previous.
Friday, August 12, 2005
10 Day Vipassana Retreat, Mcleod Ganj
Friday, July 15. Do or die day for the Vipassana retreat. In full rain gear I walk to the chai shop next to the Vipassana center. Song Mi is there with her friend who is going into the 10 day course. They share a farewell meal together and I stopped to join them for a bit. Later when they get well through the waiting list my number is called. So I picked up my entry ticket and went to retrieve my pack. Said goodbye to Daniel and Yoli as they would most likely be moving on before the end of the course.
I check in at 6 pm. Fill out forms, stow your valuables and leave 200 rupee deposit for laundry (5rps per piece of laundry. At least it's a cheap place to have laundry done!).Got my sheets, found my bed, made it and then went off to dinner. Basic Indian food:Rice, curry veggie, dal and chai.
There about 90 students, a even split between male and female. Additionally there is the head male teacher, a head female teacher, 1 monk, 3 nuns and a handful of Dharma workers voluteering there time. At 7pm we are given an introductory meeting and at 8pm is our first meditation. Noble Silence has taken effect so no more talking for the next 10 days with the exception of questions for the teacher or management.The meditation starts with a 1/2 hour video of S.N. Goenka, founder of the Vipassana Meditation Centers, explaining what the course is and isn't and what we are getting into.
Then he introduces the stundents to the Anapanna meditation technique. In short, awareness of breath with particular focus on the sensations in the area of the upper lip and nose. We worked on that for about 30 minutes, then I brushed my teeth and layed down in a very uncomfortable cot for the night. Or at least some of it, until our early wake bell.
For the record here is the schedule:
4am Morning Bell
4:30-6:30 Hall Meditation
6:30-8 Breakfast (typically an oatmeal/porridge thing with chai.)
8-9am Group Meditation
9-11am Hall Meditation
11-12 Lunch (Our main meal)
12-1pm Rest/interviews with teacher
1-2:30pm Hall Meditation
2:30-3:30 Group Meditation
3:30-5pm Hall Meditation
5-6pm Tea Break (New students get puffed rice)
6-7pm Group Meditation
7-8:30 Teacher's Discourse (Geonka video)
8:30-9pm Group Meaditation
9-9:30 Question the teacher/Retire
There is ~5 minutes to walk/stretch/piss between meditations. Besides shit and shower, that is all you do. In many ways it is stricter than prison!
Vipassana Day I
Fell asleep around 1am. Up at 4am. The first day we just practice Anapanna. A bit uncomfortable sitting all those hours, but I'm sure we will all get used to it.
Vipassana Day II
Tossed and turned again last night. Finally fell asleep ~2am. All day we continue with the Anapanna. Really didn't feel tired although I was a little bored. I have been practicing Anapanna for about two years now so I'm anxious to move onto something new.
Vipassana Day III
All Anapanna, All Day, Again!! Now I'm really not concentrated and I start to wonder about this course. Another distraction is the fact that all the meditations start with a tape Goenka chanting in Pali/Hindu. It's supposed to open the chakras, but it's just kind of annoying to me, especially the way he trails off each line sounding like a sputtering geiger counter. Then he gives a long set of instructions in Hindu and wraps it off with about 10 seconds of instructions in English. Very difficult to concentrate through all of that. One bright spot though is that we learn that tomorrow we actually will begin the Vipassana Technique!
Vipassana Day IV
I awake very excited to start the new technique, but at first light we discover that we will have to wait until 3pm to begin. So I work through the Anapanna for a few more hours and then we are taught Vipassana Technique. With complete equanimity we observe our bodily sensations with a calm mind. Do not desire for pleasant sensations. Do not have aversion towards the unpleasant sensations. Scan the whole body, head to toe, but don't get stuck on the gross sensations. The idea is to discover your more and more subtle sensations which the unconcious mind is constantly aware of, but that the concious mind never realizes.
Buddha's theory and unique gift to the world is that we don't actually react directly to our thoughts and ideas as most people assume. In fact, out thoughts, ideas, feelings create hither-to unknown subtle physical sensations which is what we actually react to without even knowing the process is happening. Unfortunately, these sensations and the way we react unconciously are totally based on past experience. Conditioned experience. Deluded experience and reactions, since they aren't based on the current reality.
So by meditating on these sensations with equanimity, understanding their impermanance (Anicca) as well as their insubstantability we stop supplying the current sensations with fuel. Like someone knocking on your door, if you don't pay them attention they will evertually pass away as all things do. This makes way for older stores of sensations to arise. Again through the meditation we starve them and they burn themselves out.
Eventually, working on more and more subtle sensations we develop true wisdom (Panna) through directly experiencing the only reality we can truly know: our mind/body field. One can stop reacting blindly and cleanse themselves of the their mental defilements.
Vipassana Day V
Happy to practice now, I work hard although the unpleasant gross sensations (Back & Knees) are certainly a challenge. Particularly since during the 3 seperate one hour group meditations we are supposed to maintain our pose without any movement. But by remaining equanimious, their impermenance is realized and I can feel them abating. Satisfied with my progress I go to bed, but there is a strange churning in my stomach which isn't quite right.
Vipassana Day VI
I'm definately sick! It turns out to be a day from Hell! I woke with diahreah, headache and a fever. Up until now the lack of sleep hasn't really affected me, but now I know it's going to come back to haunt me. To stay close to the toilet I take the morning meditation in bed. Skipped eating breakfast and rested. Cold and suffering from chills I wear felt gloves, my hoody pulled over my head and a blanket wrapped around me for the group sitting, but still experience prolonged shivering. I'm truly miserable, but trying my best to remain equanimous! Skipped lunch and rested some more. Tried to take another meditation in bed, but the young Indian Dharma worker told me I must go to the meditation hall or I would be kicked out of the course. What Compassion!?! Now I'm carrying around a water proof stuff sack in case I vomit too. Spent the rest of the day alternating between sweats and chills with absolutely no concentration. Skipped dinner (no food today). Who needs puffed rice anyway. Now I'm suffering from dizziness and all my muscles ache from the shivering. I wonder if I can hang on?? Through the last meditations and the discourse I mostly debate what to do. Going to bed I decide that if I'm not considerably better in the morning I'll be unable to continue and leave the course.
Vipassana Day VII
Luckily I fell asleep right away last night only waking once to a bathroom trip. The sleep helped alot. I still feel I have little control and something could escape out either end at any time. But the fever has broken and my muscles seem to have recovered. Making sure to go to the bathroom right before each meditation I'm actually able to work well. All in all not a bad day. I'm even maintaining my pose for the whole hour, more or less. We go to sleep listening to fireworks going off over Dharamcot.
Vipassana Day VIII
I've stopped carrying my vomit bag, but I'm still having diahreah although it seems to be under control. It's really funny to watch all the students on break. So starved for entertainment you can watch people constantly staring at lady bugs, slugs, mushrooms, anything of even the slightest interest. My gross senssations are completely gone yet, but with a quick equanimious observation they melt away quickly. Took some food today. Getting a little wary of the intense schedule.
Vipassana Day IX
Still have mild stomach problems. I work, but I'm definately quite bored and my concentration and effort suffer for it. It's been a rough time for me and now that I know the technique I just want to go practice on my own without the rigors of the course.
Vipassana Day X
Today things change up a bit. In the morning, to give a little something back we are taught Metta Bhavana. Meditation sending out compassion and Love and general good will. And after that Noble Silence is lifted. It's strange to talk again. Finally get to say hello to my roomate, Diego (Portagul). Small groups of the students now congregate in the common areas. Mostly grouped by their repsective languages. After introductions we all discuss our experiences right through a rather loud lunch. Had a nice conversation with Chris (VT) and we had similar takes on the course. At 1pm we were interupted from our orating orgy to watch the movie "Doing Time, Doing Vipassana (may be available in the US). Afterwards more meditation, more talking, dinner, more meditation, discourse and more talking right until lights out at 10pm.
Vipassana Day XI
Independance Day. Up at 4am for a meditation followed by breakfast. Our last deed is to help clean up. I get kitchen duty. To the belly of the beast that bit me. After about an hour I was furlowed. With the sweet smell of freedom on my now highly sensitized nostrils I took a deep breath and made the short walk back to the Shanti house to secure a room. Shortly thereafter I was enjoying a real breakfast once again at The Sunflower Cafe. Around 9am I met Ofer (Israeli with an American accent), from the retreat, at the Trek & Dine. There we savored all the delicacies we were denied over the past 10 days. Enjoying food, sipping cokes, smoking, playing backgammon, talking surf and we even watched "The Last Samuri" finally calling it a night at 1am.
My Critique on Goenka's Vipassana Course
Ok. Right off the bat let me say that I really like the Vipassana Technique. I think it makes complete sense and works with practice. However, with regard to the Goenka Course, I think that it is seriously flawed.
It's meant to be an introductory course, but it feels like a Masters course. The length and the intensity is couterproductive. Buddha taught the Vipassana as a Universal technique for the benefit of all. Additionally he taught a person in a few minutes and then set them about to practice on their own. I don't ever recall reading an instance when Buddha taught on the condition that the student live and practice as a monk for 10 days.
The technique is actually very simple. It isn't as much learned as it is practiced. Years, decades, lifetimes of practice. Unless you are already on the karmic cusp of Buddhahood 10 days will not bring enlightentment.
In fact, I believe the intensity is harmful. First; only the strong willed and determined will succesfully work thru the course. Conversly, the weaker minds who have the most need and the most to be gained are left out in the cold. Not true Dhamma! Also there is the burnout factor which helps breed a certain amount of disdain. Secondly; Vipassana should reach or at least be accessible to everyone. Ten days is very time prohibative for MOST everyday people.
In addition to aforementioned distracting audio tapes, the video discourses talk a little about how the course is not sectarian, a rite or a ritual. They do however want you to practice 2 hours everyday, do 1 ten day retreat every year, and oh yeah: if you haven't completed the course you are not welcome to meditate at their meditation hall. The Orwellian Doublespeak can not camoflouge the apparent sectarian rituals.
So I really don't believe a person would need more than some coaching from another who knows the technique to effectively practice Vipassana. And once again let me reiteriate that I like the technique. Just not the course. But Hell, some people even really enjoy the course. To each his own.
I check in at 6 pm. Fill out forms, stow your valuables and leave 200 rupee deposit for laundry (5rps per piece of laundry. At least it's a cheap place to have laundry done!).Got my sheets, found my bed, made it and then went off to dinner. Basic Indian food:Rice, curry veggie, dal and chai.
There about 90 students, a even split between male and female. Additionally there is the head male teacher, a head female teacher, 1 monk, 3 nuns and a handful of Dharma workers voluteering there time. At 7pm we are given an introductory meeting and at 8pm is our first meditation. Noble Silence has taken effect so no more talking for the next 10 days with the exception of questions for the teacher or management.The meditation starts with a 1/2 hour video of S.N. Goenka, founder of the Vipassana Meditation Centers, explaining what the course is and isn't and what we are getting into.
Then he introduces the stundents to the Anapanna meditation technique. In short, awareness of breath with particular focus on the sensations in the area of the upper lip and nose. We worked on that for about 30 minutes, then I brushed my teeth and layed down in a very uncomfortable cot for the night. Or at least some of it, until our early wake bell.
For the record here is the schedule:
4am Morning Bell
4:30-6:30 Hall Meditation
6:30-8 Breakfast (typically an oatmeal/porridge thing with chai.)
8-9am Group Meditation
9-11am Hall Meditation
11-12 Lunch (Our main meal)
12-1pm Rest/interviews with teacher
1-2:30pm Hall Meditation
2:30-3:30 Group Meditation
3:30-5pm Hall Meditation
5-6pm Tea Break (New students get puffed rice)
6-7pm Group Meditation
7-8:30 Teacher's Discourse (Geonka video)
8:30-9pm Group Meaditation
9-9:30 Question the teacher/Retire
There is ~5 minutes to walk/stretch/piss between meditations. Besides shit and shower, that is all you do. In many ways it is stricter than prison!
Vipassana Day I
Fell asleep around 1am. Up at 4am. The first day we just practice Anapanna. A bit uncomfortable sitting all those hours, but I'm sure we will all get used to it.
Vipassana Day II
Tossed and turned again last night. Finally fell asleep ~2am. All day we continue with the Anapanna. Really didn't feel tired although I was a little bored. I have been practicing Anapanna for about two years now so I'm anxious to move onto something new.
Vipassana Day III
All Anapanna, All Day, Again!! Now I'm really not concentrated and I start to wonder about this course. Another distraction is the fact that all the meditations start with a tape Goenka chanting in Pali/Hindu. It's supposed to open the chakras, but it's just kind of annoying to me, especially the way he trails off each line sounding like a sputtering geiger counter. Then he gives a long set of instructions in Hindu and wraps it off with about 10 seconds of instructions in English. Very difficult to concentrate through all of that. One bright spot though is that we learn that tomorrow we actually will begin the Vipassana Technique!
Vipassana Day IV
I awake very excited to start the new technique, but at first light we discover that we will have to wait until 3pm to begin. So I work through the Anapanna for a few more hours and then we are taught Vipassana Technique. With complete equanimity we observe our bodily sensations with a calm mind. Do not desire for pleasant sensations. Do not have aversion towards the unpleasant sensations. Scan the whole body, head to toe, but don't get stuck on the gross sensations. The idea is to discover your more and more subtle sensations which the unconcious mind is constantly aware of, but that the concious mind never realizes.
Buddha's theory and unique gift to the world is that we don't actually react directly to our thoughts and ideas as most people assume. In fact, out thoughts, ideas, feelings create hither-to unknown subtle physical sensations which is what we actually react to without even knowing the process is happening. Unfortunately, these sensations and the way we react unconciously are totally based on past experience. Conditioned experience. Deluded experience and reactions, since they aren't based on the current reality.
So by meditating on these sensations with equanimity, understanding their impermanance (Anicca) as well as their insubstantability we stop supplying the current sensations with fuel. Like someone knocking on your door, if you don't pay them attention they will evertually pass away as all things do. This makes way for older stores of sensations to arise. Again through the meditation we starve them and they burn themselves out.
Eventually, working on more and more subtle sensations we develop true wisdom (Panna) through directly experiencing the only reality we can truly know: our mind/body field. One can stop reacting blindly and cleanse themselves of the their mental defilements.
Vipassana Day V
Happy to practice now, I work hard although the unpleasant gross sensations (Back & Knees) are certainly a challenge. Particularly since during the 3 seperate one hour group meditations we are supposed to maintain our pose without any movement. But by remaining equanimious, their impermenance is realized and I can feel them abating. Satisfied with my progress I go to bed, but there is a strange churning in my stomach which isn't quite right.
Vipassana Day VI
I'm definately sick! It turns out to be a day from Hell! I woke with diahreah, headache and a fever. Up until now the lack of sleep hasn't really affected me, but now I know it's going to come back to haunt me. To stay close to the toilet I take the morning meditation in bed. Skipped eating breakfast and rested. Cold and suffering from chills I wear felt gloves, my hoody pulled over my head and a blanket wrapped around me for the group sitting, but still experience prolonged shivering. I'm truly miserable, but trying my best to remain equanimous! Skipped lunch and rested some more. Tried to take another meditation in bed, but the young Indian Dharma worker told me I must go to the meditation hall or I would be kicked out of the course. What Compassion!?! Now I'm carrying around a water proof stuff sack in case I vomit too. Spent the rest of the day alternating between sweats and chills with absolutely no concentration. Skipped dinner (no food today). Who needs puffed rice anyway. Now I'm suffering from dizziness and all my muscles ache from the shivering. I wonder if I can hang on?? Through the last meditations and the discourse I mostly debate what to do. Going to bed I decide that if I'm not considerably better in the morning I'll be unable to continue and leave the course.
Vipassana Day VII
Luckily I fell asleep right away last night only waking once to a bathroom trip. The sleep helped alot. I still feel I have little control and something could escape out either end at any time. But the fever has broken and my muscles seem to have recovered. Making sure to go to the bathroom right before each meditation I'm actually able to work well. All in all not a bad day. I'm even maintaining my pose for the whole hour, more or less. We go to sleep listening to fireworks going off over Dharamcot.
Vipassana Day VIII
I've stopped carrying my vomit bag, but I'm still having diahreah although it seems to be under control. It's really funny to watch all the students on break. So starved for entertainment you can watch people constantly staring at lady bugs, slugs, mushrooms, anything of even the slightest interest. My gross senssations are completely gone yet, but with a quick equanimious observation they melt away quickly. Took some food today. Getting a little wary of the intense schedule.
Vipassana Day IX
Still have mild stomach problems. I work, but I'm definately quite bored and my concentration and effort suffer for it. It's been a rough time for me and now that I know the technique I just want to go practice on my own without the rigors of the course.
Vipassana Day X
Today things change up a bit. In the morning, to give a little something back we are taught Metta Bhavana. Meditation sending out compassion and Love and general good will. And after that Noble Silence is lifted. It's strange to talk again. Finally get to say hello to my roomate, Diego (Portagul). Small groups of the students now congregate in the common areas. Mostly grouped by their repsective languages. After introductions we all discuss our experiences right through a rather loud lunch. Had a nice conversation with Chris (VT) and we had similar takes on the course. At 1pm we were interupted from our orating orgy to watch the movie "Doing Time, Doing Vipassana (may be available in the US). Afterwards more meditation, more talking, dinner, more meditation, discourse and more talking right until lights out at 10pm.
Vipassana Day XI
Independance Day. Up at 4am for a meditation followed by breakfast. Our last deed is to help clean up. I get kitchen duty. To the belly of the beast that bit me. After about an hour I was furlowed. With the sweet smell of freedom on my now highly sensitized nostrils I took a deep breath and made the short walk back to the Shanti house to secure a room. Shortly thereafter I was enjoying a real breakfast once again at The Sunflower Cafe. Around 9am I met Ofer (Israeli with an American accent), from the retreat, at the Trek & Dine. There we savored all the delicacies we were denied over the past 10 days. Enjoying food, sipping cokes, smoking, playing backgammon, talking surf and we even watched "The Last Samuri" finally calling it a night at 1am.
My Critique on Goenka's Vipassana Course
Ok. Right off the bat let me say that I really like the Vipassana Technique. I think it makes complete sense and works with practice. However, with regard to the Goenka Course, I think that it is seriously flawed.
It's meant to be an introductory course, but it feels like a Masters course. The length and the intensity is couterproductive. Buddha taught the Vipassana as a Universal technique for the benefit of all. Additionally he taught a person in a few minutes and then set them about to practice on their own. I don't ever recall reading an instance when Buddha taught on the condition that the student live and practice as a monk for 10 days.
The technique is actually very simple. It isn't as much learned as it is practiced. Years, decades, lifetimes of practice. Unless you are already on the karmic cusp of Buddhahood 10 days will not bring enlightentment.
In fact, I believe the intensity is harmful. First; only the strong willed and determined will succesfully work thru the course. Conversly, the weaker minds who have the most need and the most to be gained are left out in the cold. Not true Dhamma! Also there is the burnout factor which helps breed a certain amount of disdain. Secondly; Vipassana should reach or at least be accessible to everyone. Ten days is very time prohibative for MOST everyday people.
In addition to aforementioned distracting audio tapes, the video discourses talk a little about how the course is not sectarian, a rite or a ritual. They do however want you to practice 2 hours everyday, do 1 ten day retreat every year, and oh yeah: if you haven't completed the course you are not welcome to meditate at their meditation hall. The Orwellian Doublespeak can not camoflouge the apparent sectarian rituals.
So I really don't believe a person would need more than some coaching from another who knows the technique to effectively practice Vipassana. And once again let me reiteriate that I like the technique. Just not the course. But Hell, some people even really enjoy the course. To each his own.
Tuesday, August 09, 2005
Dharmasala, Mcleod Ganj or Dharamcot????
So I stalked the American girls from the bus to the hotel where they had reserved a room. I, of course, hadn't reserved anything so the first thing to do is find a room. None available at their hotel and since it's the Dalai Lama's Birthday I am a little concerned with general vacancy in the town. Figuring I'd take the lesser road traveled, I continue climbing a mountain road up and away from the girl's hotel. May be nothing up there at all, but if there is there is a much better chance of securing a vacant room.
After a while things looked very bleek and I was just turning around when I met Vinoed. A young man of twenty-one who said he had a room available. It's just 1 km further. I'm a little dubious of the offer, especially since it requires a further steep ascent in the thin mountain air lugging my backpack. But I go with it and after 2km we arrive. Vinoed shows me a decent enough room with a shared outdoor bathroom and shower and small kitchen in which the guests constantly serve up various teas and Chais. I agree to stay at the Shanti Guest House for $2/day and after finding a bit of a short cut into Mcleod Ganj I decide that it really is a nice place to stay. Its quiet peace is a welcome respite from the horns and bustle of "normal India". The time passes easily here sitting on the terrace staring out at the lush green mountains which attract clouds like magnets to iron filings that flow into or creep over the mountains with remarkable speed.
Dharamcot is the name of the village and you would never guess what nationality dominates the landscape here. Indian? No. Tibetan? Lots of them, but No again. Israelis? Ding,ding,ding, we have a winner!! It's more Israeli here than in Israel. That's there assesment, not mine. Apparently most Israelis like to travel once they get out of the army (3yrs) and India is the most popular destination. Due to the low cost of living it makes it easy to live simply and happily for extended periods of time. In addition to Dharamcot I'm told they are taking over Manali and Leh also!
The family and the guests are all very nice. The guests include 6 Israelis and 1 Korean. After talk and Chai I went down to one of the numerous restaraunts which offer a full array of worldly dishes. Then had dinner and a movie. Pizza and Swordfish (the movie). There was slight rain today, the monsoon is on its way!
The next morning I took a walk down a steep path to Mcleod to explore its offerings. Took a stroll down "Temple Road" and took my turn spinning the 100 Tibetan Mani (prayer) wheels. Spun my way to the temple and after a thorough pat down I was in the temple courtyard poised to watch His Holiness, the Dalai Lama pass through.A veggie burger and a Dosa (Indian crepe with spicy dip and soup) for lunch fueled my tank nicely. I began the climb back to the guest house when a Bikshuni (nun) asked me to deliver a note to the Tushita retreat office on my way. Tibetan monks seem very relaxed in their merlot colored robes. I thought it an odd site when I noticed one wearing an expensive looking gold watch (probably fake) and talking on his cell phone! I wonder who he was talking too. I hope it wasn't a girl friend:)
In the morning I went to where I'd wind up eating most of my breakfasts, The Sunflower Cafe. Lovely Rita and her little helper, Mantoo serve up a mean omelette sandwich. Fellow guests Song Mi and Atun took a richshaw down to Mcleod while Amos and I hoofed it down in the rain. Which quickly brought to my attention that my waterproof boots were in fact not waterproof at all! We entered the temple where they were having performances of song and dance in honor of His Holiess. We saw a couple of acts and then it ended. Rejoining with Song Mi we decided to get some food, but our timing was poor. The eateries were all packed or closed for HH's birthday. After a hour of walking in the rain we finally got into a Korean restaurant where Song Mi ordered us in her native tongue sushi and two other delicious dinners which we all shared. Spent the evening playing a popular card game with the Israelis called Wist.
No rain in the morning which afforded us the opportunity to learn yoga from Song Mi. Gill, who does about 4 hours of yoga a day even set up a hanging belt in her room. It's nice to hang and stretch out the back for a swift 10 minutes that flies by. In the afternoon I took a short hike alone to check out some waterfalls created earlier by falling water:)
Another session of yoga in the morning and off to a late breakfast. I had forgotten that Gill offered to make us lunch and so within an hour of finishing breakfast I was enjoying a fine salad and a very tasty dish whose name escaped me (veggies, cheese, egg and sauch pie thingy).
It's Sunday and Shanti, it's his house, has offered to make us all dinner. So we make it three days in a row of yoga, which really does make you feel good, and spend a lazy day working up our appetites. A tasty classic Indian meal of rice, dal (sauce), aloo (potato), goopy (cauliflower) and bread was enjoyed by all. Followed by our contribution, a local famous dessert called Bhagsu cake which can only be procured in the neighboring village of Bhagsu. With evening faded away to the sounds of Yoli and Jonathon playing Metallica, G&R and various Israeli songs.
We take a rest from yoga today. I help Enzo, a German guest, by speaking to his credit card company for him. His goods were stolen on a bus and since his English isn't strong I provide some translation. Afterwards I take a seat at the Trek & Dine restaurant where I will be spending much of time in the near future. There I'm cornered by Omar who is desperete to talk to someone in English, not Hebrew! It's tough being a minority! During the afternoon I took another hike up towards Triund and Snowline which indeed does still have a snowline on it. I pass a tiny Hindu temple whose remoteness must make it a seldom visited place and wind up on a ridge which provides a wonderful view of the Dharmasala Valley opened wide before ones eyes. Unfortunately, the skys also opened up and caught unprepared, I headed back.
Today I signed up for the 10 day Vipassana meditation retreat. I'm 52 on the waiting list, but I'm told I still have a 70-80% chance of getting in because many people never show up. I'll have to wait and see.The next morning was spent lsitening to an exotic beauty, half Indian, half English who entertained us with her tales of her past lives always escaping some kind of oppression or another. Her Reiki powers and metamorphosous massage sound equally enticing. The most strenuous activity of the day is watching "Ray" (Charles) and good, but long movie.
In the morning we opted for the "End of the World" to recieve breakfast. They made some room for us as we removed our shoes and we filled our bellies while it rained cats and dogs outside. There I started reading a very ominous book on climate change, but quickly erased the gloom with card games and chai. That night we said goodbye to Amos who was headed home to pack up for a short work stint in Boston. That night I also beat Yoli at chess a couple of times followed by cards with a guy who told us to call him either Moses or Dr. Evil! Go figure! Enzo got his replacement credit card today and I go to bed wondering if tomorrow I'll be in Vipassana??
After a while things looked very bleek and I was just turning around when I met Vinoed. A young man of twenty-one who said he had a room available. It's just 1 km further. I'm a little dubious of the offer, especially since it requires a further steep ascent in the thin mountain air lugging my backpack. But I go with it and after 2km we arrive. Vinoed shows me a decent enough room with a shared outdoor bathroom and shower and small kitchen in which the guests constantly serve up various teas and Chais. I agree to stay at the Shanti Guest House for $2/day and after finding a bit of a short cut into Mcleod Ganj I decide that it really is a nice place to stay. Its quiet peace is a welcome respite from the horns and bustle of "normal India". The time passes easily here sitting on the terrace staring out at the lush green mountains which attract clouds like magnets to iron filings that flow into or creep over the mountains with remarkable speed.
Dharamcot is the name of the village and you would never guess what nationality dominates the landscape here. Indian? No. Tibetan? Lots of them, but No again. Israelis? Ding,ding,ding, we have a winner!! It's more Israeli here than in Israel. That's there assesment, not mine. Apparently most Israelis like to travel once they get out of the army (3yrs) and India is the most popular destination. Due to the low cost of living it makes it easy to live simply and happily for extended periods of time. In addition to Dharamcot I'm told they are taking over Manali and Leh also!
The family and the guests are all very nice. The guests include 6 Israelis and 1 Korean. After talk and Chai I went down to one of the numerous restaraunts which offer a full array of worldly dishes. Then had dinner and a movie. Pizza and Swordfish (the movie). There was slight rain today, the monsoon is on its way!
The next morning I took a walk down a steep path to Mcleod to explore its offerings. Took a stroll down "Temple Road" and took my turn spinning the 100 Tibetan Mani (prayer) wheels. Spun my way to the temple and after a thorough pat down I was in the temple courtyard poised to watch His Holiness, the Dalai Lama pass through.A veggie burger and a Dosa (Indian crepe with spicy dip and soup) for lunch fueled my tank nicely. I began the climb back to the guest house when a Bikshuni (nun) asked me to deliver a note to the Tushita retreat office on my way. Tibetan monks seem very relaxed in their merlot colored robes. I thought it an odd site when I noticed one wearing an expensive looking gold watch (probably fake) and talking on his cell phone! I wonder who he was talking too. I hope it wasn't a girl friend:)
In the morning I went to where I'd wind up eating most of my breakfasts, The Sunflower Cafe. Lovely Rita and her little helper, Mantoo serve up a mean omelette sandwich. Fellow guests Song Mi and Atun took a richshaw down to Mcleod while Amos and I hoofed it down in the rain. Which quickly brought to my attention that my waterproof boots were in fact not waterproof at all! We entered the temple where they were having performances of song and dance in honor of His Holiess. We saw a couple of acts and then it ended. Rejoining with Song Mi we decided to get some food, but our timing was poor. The eateries were all packed or closed for HH's birthday. After a hour of walking in the rain we finally got into a Korean restaurant where Song Mi ordered us in her native tongue sushi and two other delicious dinners which we all shared. Spent the evening playing a popular card game with the Israelis called Wist.
No rain in the morning which afforded us the opportunity to learn yoga from Song Mi. Gill, who does about 4 hours of yoga a day even set up a hanging belt in her room. It's nice to hang and stretch out the back for a swift 10 minutes that flies by. In the afternoon I took a short hike alone to check out some waterfalls created earlier by falling water:)
Another session of yoga in the morning and off to a late breakfast. I had forgotten that Gill offered to make us lunch and so within an hour of finishing breakfast I was enjoying a fine salad and a very tasty dish whose name escaped me (veggies, cheese, egg and sauch pie thingy).
It's Sunday and Shanti, it's his house, has offered to make us all dinner. So we make it three days in a row of yoga, which really does make you feel good, and spend a lazy day working up our appetites. A tasty classic Indian meal of rice, dal (sauce), aloo (potato), goopy (cauliflower) and bread was enjoyed by all. Followed by our contribution, a local famous dessert called Bhagsu cake which can only be procured in the neighboring village of Bhagsu. With evening faded away to the sounds of Yoli and Jonathon playing Metallica, G&R and various Israeli songs.
We take a rest from yoga today. I help Enzo, a German guest, by speaking to his credit card company for him. His goods were stolen on a bus and since his English isn't strong I provide some translation. Afterwards I take a seat at the Trek & Dine restaurant where I will be spending much of time in the near future. There I'm cornered by Omar who is desperete to talk to someone in English, not Hebrew! It's tough being a minority! During the afternoon I took another hike up towards Triund and Snowline which indeed does still have a snowline on it. I pass a tiny Hindu temple whose remoteness must make it a seldom visited place and wind up on a ridge which provides a wonderful view of the Dharmasala Valley opened wide before ones eyes. Unfortunately, the skys also opened up and caught unprepared, I headed back.
Today I signed up for the 10 day Vipassana meditation retreat. I'm 52 on the waiting list, but I'm told I still have a 70-80% chance of getting in because many people never show up. I'll have to wait and see.The next morning was spent lsitening to an exotic beauty, half Indian, half English who entertained us with her tales of her past lives always escaping some kind of oppression or another. Her Reiki powers and metamorphosous massage sound equally enticing. The most strenuous activity of the day is watching "Ray" (Charles) and good, but long movie.
In the morning we opted for the "End of the World" to recieve breakfast. They made some room for us as we removed our shoes and we filled our bellies while it rained cats and dogs outside. There I started reading a very ominous book on climate change, but quickly erased the gloom with card games and chai. That night we said goodbye to Amos who was headed home to pack up for a short work stint in Boston. That night I also beat Yoli at chess a couple of times followed by cards with a guy who told us to call him either Moses or Dr. Evil! Go figure! Enzo got his replacement credit card today and I go to bed wondering if tomorrow I'll be in Vipassana??
Monday, August 08, 2005
While sitting on the terrace one evening Daniel asked me if I would like to have children? I said no, but it's nice of him to offer! I actually said, "I'd like to, but don't want to." A little ambiguous. While in Vipassana one sleepless night I thought of this story which I think helps clarify my meaning.
Do Children Make You Uncomfortable??
Magnum Durex flips open his umbrella in a huff as he steps into the Manhattan cityscape bathed in a cool autumn drizzle. With a furrowed brow he walks to lunch contemplating his predicament. The marketplace is stagnant. As CEO the stockholders were looking to him to gain marketshare, but the meeting he just concluded with his advertising agency left much to be desired. He desperetely needed a new marketing angle.
As he approached the corner of 4th Ave and 42nd street his attention was caught by an easy target on which to vent a little steam.
Another "Doomsdayer" perched on this pilfered milk crate donned with signs prophesizing "The End is Near!!!" Magnum engages his silver tongue and yells out sarcastically to the tattered old man, "Gotta date for us?!?"
With a slight nod his calm cool stare preceeded his answer, "By 2599!"
"Oh really! I suppose Jesus told you this?"
"Sir, Jesus is no longer of this Earth and I speak only to the living."
Magnum thought for sure this guy was a Jesus freak. O.K.
"Then I guess God told you?!"
"I don't believe God Almighty wastes his breath on old homeless men like me. No sir, it was not God who told me this prophecy."
"Well then! Who was it that imparted this wisdom!?"
"It was a cripple."
"A Cripple, HA!! You're just another whacko like all the rest!!"
And with that Magnum Durex flung his umbrella around as he spun on his heels and blindly entered the crosswalk. From behind he heard, "That cripple was Stephen Hawkins."
Magnum recognized the name of arguably the worlds most intelligent man. Caught off gaurd, he once again spun around.
A blaring horn in the not far off distance prevented him from hearing the doomsdayers next words, but he didn't fail to notice a uniquely odd expression on his face. Had he spun another 90 degrees he certainly would not have failed to notice the uniquely horrified expression on the face of Metro bus 19's driver as he futilely locked up the brakes of the ten ton rolling transport. One second Magnum was standing in the crosswalk and the next, Puff, gone! Only to reappear prone ten yards down the boulevard. The smoke from the bus tires lending the effect of a grand magic trick gone awry.
Death was instant. As his disembodied spirit floated skyward Magnum felt a pang of ire well up. Not with regard to his death so much as his inability to respond to the living when the Doomsdayer got in the last word, "For some, the End is nearer than others."
The end was here, but as Magnum met his Creator his mind was preoccupied with the idea of such credible genius as Hawkins' prophesizing the End of the World. Without concern for the current circumstances he put the question to God."Did Stephen Hawkins predict the End of the World?"
(In a Jewish accent ala Mel Brooks or Woody Allen.)
God responds:"Vwell, yes and no. He did not predict the End of the World. He did produce population models that show within 600 years the Earth will be so over populated that every square foot of land will be covered by humans standing shoulder to shoulder. Additionally, if power is to be produced for all these humans, it will cause the Earth to glow red hot like the Sun!"
As Magnum pondered this, his deep concentration prevented him from noticing the almost imperceptible sensation of sinking.
It turned out that despite God's Jewish accent he is in fact a staunch Roman Catholic. As CEO of Durex Condoms, Magnum didn't stand the proverbial chance in Hell of entering Heaven.
So Magnum had eternity to agonize over two things mostly. The Paradox and the Irony.The paradox being the choice between not using contraceptions, thus escaping eternal damnation, but at the cost of creating Hell on Earth. Or, using contraception, thus sparing Earth, but damning oneself eternally?The irony being, well in Magnum's own words,"If I had only given that man a few more seconds, not only would I still be alive, but he would have given me on a shiny silver platter the idea for the market grabbing advertising campaign I was looking for so desperately!
To be or not to be, that is the question- Shakespeare
To breed or not to breed, another good question- DJ
Do Children Make You Uncomfortable??
Magnum Durex flips open his umbrella in a huff as he steps into the Manhattan cityscape bathed in a cool autumn drizzle. With a furrowed brow he walks to lunch contemplating his predicament. The marketplace is stagnant. As CEO the stockholders were looking to him to gain marketshare, but the meeting he just concluded with his advertising agency left much to be desired. He desperetely needed a new marketing angle.
As he approached the corner of 4th Ave and 42nd street his attention was caught by an easy target on which to vent a little steam.
Another "Doomsdayer" perched on this pilfered milk crate donned with signs prophesizing "The End is Near!!!" Magnum engages his silver tongue and yells out sarcastically to the tattered old man, "Gotta date for us?!?"
With a slight nod his calm cool stare preceeded his answer, "By 2599!"
"Oh really! I suppose Jesus told you this?"
"Sir, Jesus is no longer of this Earth and I speak only to the living."
Magnum thought for sure this guy was a Jesus freak. O.K.
"Then I guess God told you?!"
"I don't believe God Almighty wastes his breath on old homeless men like me. No sir, it was not God who told me this prophecy."
"Well then! Who was it that imparted this wisdom!?"
"It was a cripple."
"A Cripple, HA!! You're just another whacko like all the rest!!"
And with that Magnum Durex flung his umbrella around as he spun on his heels and blindly entered the crosswalk. From behind he heard, "That cripple was Stephen Hawkins."
Magnum recognized the name of arguably the worlds most intelligent man. Caught off gaurd, he once again spun around.
A blaring horn in the not far off distance prevented him from hearing the doomsdayers next words, but he didn't fail to notice a uniquely odd expression on his face. Had he spun another 90 degrees he certainly would not have failed to notice the uniquely horrified expression on the face of Metro bus 19's driver as he futilely locked up the brakes of the ten ton rolling transport. One second Magnum was standing in the crosswalk and the next, Puff, gone! Only to reappear prone ten yards down the boulevard. The smoke from the bus tires lending the effect of a grand magic trick gone awry.
Death was instant. As his disembodied spirit floated skyward Magnum felt a pang of ire well up. Not with regard to his death so much as his inability to respond to the living when the Doomsdayer got in the last word, "For some, the End is nearer than others."
The end was here, but as Magnum met his Creator his mind was preoccupied with the idea of such credible genius as Hawkins' prophesizing the End of the World. Without concern for the current circumstances he put the question to God."Did Stephen Hawkins predict the End of the World?"
(In a Jewish accent ala Mel Brooks or Woody Allen.)
God responds:"Vwell, yes and no. He did not predict the End of the World. He did produce population models that show within 600 years the Earth will be so over populated that every square foot of land will be covered by humans standing shoulder to shoulder. Additionally, if power is to be produced for all these humans, it will cause the Earth to glow red hot like the Sun!"
As Magnum pondered this, his deep concentration prevented him from noticing the almost imperceptible sensation of sinking.
It turned out that despite God's Jewish accent he is in fact a staunch Roman Catholic. As CEO of Durex Condoms, Magnum didn't stand the proverbial chance in Hell of entering Heaven.
So Magnum had eternity to agonize over two things mostly. The Paradox and the Irony.The paradox being the choice between not using contraceptions, thus escaping eternal damnation, but at the cost of creating Hell on Earth. Or, using contraception, thus sparing Earth, but damning oneself eternally?The irony being, well in Magnum's own words,"If I had only given that man a few more seconds, not only would I still be alive, but he would have given me on a shiny silver platter the idea for the market grabbing advertising campaign I was looking for so desperately!
To be or not to be, that is the question- Shakespeare
To breed or not to breed, another good question- DJ
Friday, July 29, 2005
Kashmir, India (Pakistan??)
So my first day excursion is a tour of Srinagar, home of Nageen Lake. Bashir, general manager of the houseboat, accompanies me and our driver and we begin by taking a peek at a large white-domed Mosk capable of holding 65,000 devotees.
A quick drive brought us to Shalimar Garden which was designed and built by the builder of the Taj Mahal for his wife. A similar garden named Nihalt was visited nearby as we strolled thru each garden.
Now Bashir is from a little village of Kashmir and their claim to fame are their Kashmir rugs. They have formed a corporation of rug families and they have an office here which if I'm interested Bashir would like to show me. Why not. "So that's how you make them, oh yes, very nice, stunning. How much!?!?" Good luck selling those $500 throw rugs. Gotta go! Thank you for the tour.
My next pleasure was the Golden Temple (Hindu-no gold!). They don't allow Muslims into the temple area so I climb a significant amount of steps alone and at the apex I'm greeted by a very small temple. It's about the size of a walkin closet. Eight or so Hindus at a time crambed in the tiny chamber aglow with flashing color lights, making offerings to a small round boulder which I suppose represents their diety. Outside I spent a few minutes trying to get close for pics to some interesting lizards which I later was told are very dangerous.
Drove around Old Town. Stopped at another Mosk and went inside to discover a huge area of prayer. Drove around New Town.
Zoomed in on the Old Castle, currently occupied by the Border Patrol Army. Which by the way has a huge presence around these parts. While entering into Kashmir on the bus I had to wonder what I was getting into. Apparently relations between India and Pakistan are good right now, but it's not the most relaxed atmosphere.
Interesting side note: three years ago, three tourists were kidnapped and killed. Before that they had a nice little tourist trade going, but then it crashed. So now things have calmed down and people are just starting to return. The result is that they were, at least to me, parionoid and overprotective. They barely let me out of their site. Kind of felt like house arrest with travel rights.
Anyway, I finished the evening like I would all my evenings there, with a nice vegetarian Indian dinner. Simple and delicious: rice, bean dish, curry veggie and Kashmir Tea.
Next morning after breakfast we're driving out 100km east for 3 hours to the Sonmarg Glacier Valley. After meeting my guide I meet my pony. Not the finest example of a horse, but they recomended it. We leave the majestic Sindh River behind us as we ascend towards the glacier. After a short trek (really I don't see the need for a pony) we arrived at the bottom of the glacier where some locals are riding wooden sleds down a hill of ice. The area is a base camp where you can stock up on things before heading on a trek or just sip on some tea with lunch.
Later Manzool and Bashir took me for a ride into town and a look at some property he would like to buy? Next they took me to a realator to talk business which I mostly meditated during and which concluded with the realators toking on their hooka. BTW- Marijuana grows like a weed here. Everywhere.
After dropping of a couple of hitching neighbors I figured this adventaurus jaunt through town was over, but I was wrong. Apparently it's Darien's and Ajaz's (from Dehli bus trip) birthday and they've invited us to join them. Wishing them Happy Birthdays we enjoyed birthday cake and juice. I spare Darien the age question, but find out that Ajaz is only 16. Everyone is very lively and having a great time. The females are all gathered together, young and old, beating drums and singing songs. Now they are dancing and they want me to dance, American Style. I respond that I'm really not much of a dancer and without American Music it's really quite impossible. They are rather playfully persistent however and eventually I relent to a little jumping around.
We are just cooling down from the dance when the dinner bell rings. On to the houseboat and a long thin table cloth is laid on the floor in an L configuration to accomadate all the guests. The woman and children are eating in the adjoining room. A beautiful young woman brings around a glistening water urn and collection bowl to cleanse our hands. The men all eat traditionally 4 to a large plate and all share. Darien and I have our own plates. She opts for utensils, I prefer the local custom of using your god given hands. And it's fun!
Next on the docket is a lazy Shikara ride on the lakes of Srinagar. At 11am Yacoob, my Shikara captain, loads me into the skiff and we are off. Yacoob paddles us, gliding silently while I snap pics of water lillies (Lotuses aren't in bloom yet), the floating gardens and fishermen. We reach the quiet calmness of Dal Lake and stop for a swim. The water is warm but seems considerably less buoyant. We are at 8000 ft. and you can feel it. While drying out we make our way to a small island. A small park with a floating restaurant and locals trying on Classic Kashmir Costume and taking pictures. Other Indian tourists start pulling up and as we are having lunch you can pick between three different indian stereos competing for the same sonic space. Quickly the din dies down and we nap in the boat for half an hour. After a cup of tea to wake up we make for the return trip. Half way back his paddle broke, but apparently he had a spare, so no worries. That night some curious boys who all seem to want to be doctors sat with me in the garden bombarding me with questions. The night is greeted with the muslim prayers broadcasted over PA's for the fifth and final time of the day.
The following morning we leave on another 100km drive destined for Pahalgam, home of the Lidder River Valley. Also home of the Holy (Hindu)Cave and also Yatra. A holiday where thousands will come on pligrimage to camp for two days and it starts tomorrow. This time no pony, I go it alone. Finally on my own, if only for 3 hours, I enjoy a nice hike along the river to the quieter areas. Boots off, roll up the pants, dip my feet into the cool clean Lidder River, lounging on smooth rock, soaking up rays cooled by the breeze and misting water element. Nice!
A short drive in the jeep brought us to a nice spot on the river for lunch. Taking in the scenery and food, I was pleasantly greeted by many little curious faces. A group of young school boys came by to bathe. After a quick dip and some frolicking they all got dressed and sat down to watch me eat. Quite amusing. I finished my food and started making faces to entertain them.
On the way home we got caught in some traffic due to a truck accident. I'm really suprised they don't have alot more!
My last two days at Nigeen Lake were pretty quiet. Nothing to do but relax, but on the last day I did see something pretty interesting. They were going to have a party for 500 the next day and I got to watch them preparing for the feast. Ten feet of fire, cooking large pots of food, cooks scurring to and fro, butchers trimming and mincing, and the spectacle of slaughtering 12 sheep!
Around 8am the next morning I was on a cramped mini bus saying goodbye to the Muslims and what is more or less actually Pakistan and I'm off to Jammu. My destination is Dharmasala but after 8hours my ass hurt I didn't feel like continuing on even if there was a bus then, which there wasn't. So I took cover for the night at the Ram Singh Hotel. A horrible place. The kind where you are afraid to touch anything!
Somehow thru all the confusion I managed to catch the bus in the morning to Pathankot passing thru Yud. A small Indian town renowned for it's sweets. Didn't try. From there transferred to the bus for Dharamsala which is where I figured I'd stay. But a Polish guy and two American girls said they were going to Mcleod Ganj. It's actually where the Dalai Lama resides and it happens to be his birthday in two days. What timing!
A quick drive brought us to Shalimar Garden which was designed and built by the builder of the Taj Mahal for his wife. A similar garden named Nihalt was visited nearby as we strolled thru each garden.
Now Bashir is from a little village of Kashmir and their claim to fame are their Kashmir rugs. They have formed a corporation of rug families and they have an office here which if I'm interested Bashir would like to show me. Why not. "So that's how you make them, oh yes, very nice, stunning. How much!?!?" Good luck selling those $500 throw rugs. Gotta go! Thank you for the tour.
My next pleasure was the Golden Temple (Hindu-no gold!). They don't allow Muslims into the temple area so I climb a significant amount of steps alone and at the apex I'm greeted by a very small temple. It's about the size of a walkin closet. Eight or so Hindus at a time crambed in the tiny chamber aglow with flashing color lights, making offerings to a small round boulder which I suppose represents their diety. Outside I spent a few minutes trying to get close for pics to some interesting lizards which I later was told are very dangerous.
Drove around Old Town. Stopped at another Mosk and went inside to discover a huge area of prayer. Drove around New Town.
Zoomed in on the Old Castle, currently occupied by the Border Patrol Army. Which by the way has a huge presence around these parts. While entering into Kashmir on the bus I had to wonder what I was getting into. Apparently relations between India and Pakistan are good right now, but it's not the most relaxed atmosphere.
Interesting side note: three years ago, three tourists were kidnapped and killed. Before that they had a nice little tourist trade going, but then it crashed. So now things have calmed down and people are just starting to return. The result is that they were, at least to me, parionoid and overprotective. They barely let me out of their site. Kind of felt like house arrest with travel rights.
Anyway, I finished the evening like I would all my evenings there, with a nice vegetarian Indian dinner. Simple and delicious: rice, bean dish, curry veggie and Kashmir Tea.
Next morning after breakfast we're driving out 100km east for 3 hours to the Sonmarg Glacier Valley. After meeting my guide I meet my pony. Not the finest example of a horse, but they recomended it. We leave the majestic Sindh River behind us as we ascend towards the glacier. After a short trek (really I don't see the need for a pony) we arrived at the bottom of the glacier where some locals are riding wooden sleds down a hill of ice. The area is a base camp where you can stock up on things before heading on a trek or just sip on some tea with lunch.
Later Manzool and Bashir took me for a ride into town and a look at some property he would like to buy? Next they took me to a realator to talk business which I mostly meditated during and which concluded with the realators toking on their hooka. BTW- Marijuana grows like a weed here. Everywhere.
After dropping of a couple of hitching neighbors I figured this adventaurus jaunt through town was over, but I was wrong. Apparently it's Darien's and Ajaz's (from Dehli bus trip) birthday and they've invited us to join them. Wishing them Happy Birthdays we enjoyed birthday cake and juice. I spare Darien the age question, but find out that Ajaz is only 16. Everyone is very lively and having a great time. The females are all gathered together, young and old, beating drums and singing songs. Now they are dancing and they want me to dance, American Style. I respond that I'm really not much of a dancer and without American Music it's really quite impossible. They are rather playfully persistent however and eventually I relent to a little jumping around.
We are just cooling down from the dance when the dinner bell rings. On to the houseboat and a long thin table cloth is laid on the floor in an L configuration to accomadate all the guests. The woman and children are eating in the adjoining room. A beautiful young woman brings around a glistening water urn and collection bowl to cleanse our hands. The men all eat traditionally 4 to a large plate and all share. Darien and I have our own plates. She opts for utensils, I prefer the local custom of using your god given hands. And it's fun!
Next on the docket is a lazy Shikara ride on the lakes of Srinagar. At 11am Yacoob, my Shikara captain, loads me into the skiff and we are off. Yacoob paddles us, gliding silently while I snap pics of water lillies (Lotuses aren't in bloom yet), the floating gardens and fishermen. We reach the quiet calmness of Dal Lake and stop for a swim. The water is warm but seems considerably less buoyant. We are at 8000 ft. and you can feel it. While drying out we make our way to a small island. A small park with a floating restaurant and locals trying on Classic Kashmir Costume and taking pictures. Other Indian tourists start pulling up and as we are having lunch you can pick between three different indian stereos competing for the same sonic space. Quickly the din dies down and we nap in the boat for half an hour. After a cup of tea to wake up we make for the return trip. Half way back his paddle broke, but apparently he had a spare, so no worries. That night some curious boys who all seem to want to be doctors sat with me in the garden bombarding me with questions. The night is greeted with the muslim prayers broadcasted over PA's for the fifth and final time of the day.
The following morning we leave on another 100km drive destined for Pahalgam, home of the Lidder River Valley. Also home of the Holy (Hindu)Cave and also Yatra. A holiday where thousands will come on pligrimage to camp for two days and it starts tomorrow. This time no pony, I go it alone. Finally on my own, if only for 3 hours, I enjoy a nice hike along the river to the quieter areas. Boots off, roll up the pants, dip my feet into the cool clean Lidder River, lounging on smooth rock, soaking up rays cooled by the breeze and misting water element. Nice!
A short drive in the jeep brought us to a nice spot on the river for lunch. Taking in the scenery and food, I was pleasantly greeted by many little curious faces. A group of young school boys came by to bathe. After a quick dip and some frolicking they all got dressed and sat down to watch me eat. Quite amusing. I finished my food and started making faces to entertain them.
On the way home we got caught in some traffic due to a truck accident. I'm really suprised they don't have alot more!
My last two days at Nigeen Lake were pretty quiet. Nothing to do but relax, but on the last day I did see something pretty interesting. They were going to have a party for 500 the next day and I got to watch them preparing for the feast. Ten feet of fire, cooking large pots of food, cooks scurring to and fro, butchers trimming and mincing, and the spectacle of slaughtering 12 sheep!
Around 8am the next morning I was on a cramped mini bus saying goodbye to the Muslims and what is more or less actually Pakistan and I'm off to Jammu. My destination is Dharmasala but after 8hours my ass hurt I didn't feel like continuing on even if there was a bus then, which there wasn't. So I took cover for the night at the Ram Singh Hotel. A horrible place. The kind where you are afraid to touch anything!
Somehow thru all the confusion I managed to catch the bus in the morning to Pathankot passing thru Yud. A small Indian town renowned for it's sweets. Didn't try. From there transferred to the bus for Dharamsala which is where I figured I'd stay. But a Polish guy and two American girls said they were going to Mcleod Ganj. It's actually where the Dalai Lama resides and it happens to be his birthday in two days. What timing!
Wednesday, July 27, 2005
India- the early days
I step out of the airconditioned airport into the thick Indian air. HOLY HOT PLATE! I think the literal translation of India is "A-Sauna!"A few days prior I learned that the temerature reached a record tying 46C (115F). Luckily today it's a mere 43C (109F)!!
On the suggestion of a stewardess I took a prepaid taxi from the Ghandi Airport to the Main Bazaar/Bus station. Next realization: if you think that driving in Italy is crazy you've never been to India!! The rules are as follows: __none_____________.In fact, I believe the only prerequisite for obtaining a driver's license is the ability to honk the horn. Which they do incessantly! No joke. They use there horns so much you'd think that the horn is what powers the car! Want to make a million bucks. Or 43 million Rupees? Invest heavily in automobile replacement horns! They probably have to replace them more often than petrol.
Somehow I made it alive to the Main Bazaar. Walked thru it a bit and found a place stay. No A/C, but a shower,toilet,tv, and one hell of a kicking ceiling fan.Went out for walk and quickly me Ravi, a "college student";) On alert for the scam I allowed him to walk with me. He told me about Dehli and suggested that I buy some of what they call "travel clothes", a traditional Indian cotton top and bottom so I would fit in. Yeah, OK. Like with the right clothes I'll blend right in here! And I'm not paying your boss 1000 rps for something I'm sure I could get for 400. Next he showed me an underground bizarre which was nice and cool.
But soon we were once again commenting on the extreme heat to which he suggested I spend as little time in Dehli as possible. I really couldn't agree more. I've only been here an hour and I'm ready to split this armpit. He offers to take me to a "Government Tourist Office". Well I'm now sure he's on a payroll, but I have got to get out of here somehow. On thing is for sure. Without prior experience or some well prepared research, navigating India is no easy task. The system is like nothing I've come across. That is if there is a system? I'm not quite sure yet. Even though English is pretty prevalent I feel much more lost here than anywhere in Europe.So at the travel agent I wound up agreeing to pay a much too big a chunk of cash to spend an "all inclusive" week on a houseboat in Kashmir, northern India. At that point I would have sold my soul to the devil for nothing more than an expedient trip straight to the somewhat more tolerable and temperate environment of Hell!!
Later that night I passed a guy spread eagle on his face who looked to be dead. This triggered a memory flash of the hospital when I noticed that in addition to the Emergency Room it had a "Casualty Room". This was possibly why. So I spent a sweltering night waiting for the morn of my escape....
They told me to be at the office at 11am so I was there at 10:15. It turns out that the bus doesn't leave until 12:30. At 12:30 me and the 3 Koreans making the trip with me are taken to the bus stop. Which actually leaves at 1pm! But Wait! Now we are stopping at another bus station to pick up more passengers and the bus really doesn't leave till 3pm! And when we ask what time the bus arrives all we get in reply is, "in the morning".
Well 27 hours later we arrived! Definately my longest, hairiest, scariest bus ride ever! All the roads are of course barely wide enough on each side for one vehicle. People constantly are passing so there is always someone gunning straight at you. And 80% of the vehicles are busses or mackin' trucks. I thought for sure once or twice we were in for it!
On the bus I had met Darien (Ireland) and her young Indian companion, Ajaz. He turns out to be a relative of the Magestic Houseboat owners where I am to stay. This is increbibly fortunate because he was able to guide me to my driver through a incredibly ravenous horde of guys looking for business. So, Manzool drove me in his little black Hyundai to the houseboat on Nigeen Lake, made me feel welcome and made me some delicious Kashmir tea.
I was thoroughly enjoying sipping on the tea and then the sales pitch came. Well yes, a 10-11 day trek in the Himalaya's sounds wonderful, but at $1350 it's a little (Lot)out of my budget, sorry.
I had just finished a nice breakfast of omellet, bread/butter,jam and tea when Manzool started selling again. If the big trek is too much we have smaller treks also. Still not buying. In the end I wind up agreeing again to a much too expensive package of four day trips in and around the area. The first of which starts this very same day. But my time is short so I'll leave it cliff hanger for now......
On the suggestion of a stewardess I took a prepaid taxi from the Ghandi Airport to the Main Bazaar/Bus station. Next realization: if you think that driving in Italy is crazy you've never been to India!! The rules are as follows: __none_____________.In fact, I believe the only prerequisite for obtaining a driver's license is the ability to honk the horn. Which they do incessantly! No joke. They use there horns so much you'd think that the horn is what powers the car! Want to make a million bucks. Or 43 million Rupees? Invest heavily in automobile replacement horns! They probably have to replace them more often than petrol.
Somehow I made it alive to the Main Bazaar. Walked thru it a bit and found a place stay. No A/C, but a shower,toilet,tv, and one hell of a kicking ceiling fan.Went out for walk and quickly me Ravi, a "college student";) On alert for the scam I allowed him to walk with me. He told me about Dehli and suggested that I buy some of what they call "travel clothes", a traditional Indian cotton top and bottom so I would fit in. Yeah, OK. Like with the right clothes I'll blend right in here! And I'm not paying your boss 1000 rps for something I'm sure I could get for 400. Next he showed me an underground bizarre which was nice and cool.
But soon we were once again commenting on the extreme heat to which he suggested I spend as little time in Dehli as possible. I really couldn't agree more. I've only been here an hour and I'm ready to split this armpit. He offers to take me to a "Government Tourist Office". Well I'm now sure he's on a payroll, but I have got to get out of here somehow. On thing is for sure. Without prior experience or some well prepared research, navigating India is no easy task. The system is like nothing I've come across. That is if there is a system? I'm not quite sure yet. Even though English is pretty prevalent I feel much more lost here than anywhere in Europe.So at the travel agent I wound up agreeing to pay a much too big a chunk of cash to spend an "all inclusive" week on a houseboat in Kashmir, northern India. At that point I would have sold my soul to the devil for nothing more than an expedient trip straight to the somewhat more tolerable and temperate environment of Hell!!
Later that night I passed a guy spread eagle on his face who looked to be dead. This triggered a memory flash of the hospital when I noticed that in addition to the Emergency Room it had a "Casualty Room". This was possibly why. So I spent a sweltering night waiting for the morn of my escape....
They told me to be at the office at 11am so I was there at 10:15. It turns out that the bus doesn't leave until 12:30. At 12:30 me and the 3 Koreans making the trip with me are taken to the bus stop. Which actually leaves at 1pm! But Wait! Now we are stopping at another bus station to pick up more passengers and the bus really doesn't leave till 3pm! And when we ask what time the bus arrives all we get in reply is, "in the morning".
Well 27 hours later we arrived! Definately my longest, hairiest, scariest bus ride ever! All the roads are of course barely wide enough on each side for one vehicle. People constantly are passing so there is always someone gunning straight at you. And 80% of the vehicles are busses or mackin' trucks. I thought for sure once or twice we were in for it!
On the bus I had met Darien (Ireland) and her young Indian companion, Ajaz. He turns out to be a relative of the Magestic Houseboat owners where I am to stay. This is increbibly fortunate because he was able to guide me to my driver through a incredibly ravenous horde of guys looking for business. So, Manzool drove me in his little black Hyundai to the houseboat on Nigeen Lake, made me feel welcome and made me some delicious Kashmir tea.
I was thoroughly enjoying sipping on the tea and then the sales pitch came. Well yes, a 10-11 day trek in the Himalaya's sounds wonderful, but at $1350 it's a little (Lot)out of my budget, sorry.
I had just finished a nice breakfast of omellet, bread/butter,jam and tea when Manzool started selling again. If the big trek is too much we have smaller treks also. Still not buying. In the end I wind up agreeing again to a much too expensive package of four day trips in and around the area. The first of which starts this very same day. But my time is short so I'll leave it cliff hanger for now......
Tuesday, July 12, 2005
Leaving Germany
Slept thru my alarm, but only by twenty minutes. So I checked out of "The Tent" and caught the tram to the train station. German trains are extremely nice, they even have power outlets for laptops and such. They are also accordingly pricey, however travel tip #23 says book an eticket online three days in advance and it's about half price!! My ticket had me switching trains in Frankfurt, but the train I was already on is going directly there so I arrived in PLENTY of time. So I spent 1.5 hrs on the check-in line for Air India and then the agent tried to send me to Los Angeles!! Luckily I caught her mistake, but then she tells me that my flight has been delayed and that I must go to another counter to check-in. There I see that the delay is a mere 8.5hrs!!! I guess we are on Indian time now! Well I didn't really want to leave my backpack in the hands of Air India eight hours prior to the flight, it would probably end up in LA (if I were lucky), so I didn't check-in. But then it hit me that with such a delay I'm due some kind of compensation. So I went back and checked in and they asked me why I wasn't already at the Hotel?? Cause I'm an idiot! Hopped a bus to a rather posh Indian owned hotel and being famished at this point was happy to arrive just in time to chow down on dinner. A very simple indian meal of salad, rice, potato, veggie, bread and a beer, but I think it was the best meal I have had in about 100 days!! Topped it off with a plum and a piece of marble cake for dessert and thoroughly sated went around to buy some snacks for the plane.OK, now it's time to check out the room. Really very nice! Stayed away from the open snack bar with no prices, others weren't so lucky. Had a nice shower and a shave compliments of the hotel and as luck would have it the "The Manchurian Candidate" was just starting. And it also ended just in time for me to catch the bus back to the airport. There I spent my last euros on a beer and sat to meditate till boarding.
It was not overbooked as I suspected it would be, but it was full. Smooth flight, even got a little sleep. One thing I noticed was that Indians have no concept of space. I thought once or twice while getting off the plane that I might be getting raped! Maybe they're just really in a hurry to get home? So the delay actually turned out to be a good thing. Not only did I get a little pampering, but instead of arriving at 3am I arrived around noon. Now the adventure begins......
It was not overbooked as I suspected it would be, but it was full. Smooth flight, even got a little sleep. One thing I noticed was that Indians have no concept of space. I thought once or twice while getting off the plane that I might be getting raped! Maybe they're just really in a hurry to get home? So the delay actually turned out to be a good thing. Not only did I get a little pampering, but instead of arriving at 3am I arrived around noon. Now the adventure begins......
Wednesday, June 22, 2005
Munchen
It was a silent ride and finally he dropped us off, but in the middle of god knows where. It was a subway stop, but I didn't have any Euros yet and I didn't see any ATMs so it was a godsend that Michaela was being picked up by a friend and Sebastian was kind enough to offer me a ride to the main train station. I thanked him profusely and wished them both good luck finding jobs as he was recently laid off and she was going for an interview.I was to stay at The Tent and the directions said to take tram 17 to Bontischer Garten. So I looked on the map and noticed Bontischer Garten was about 2 blocks away. So I walked. I quickly learned that the actual Garden and the actual tram stop are miles apart. So I hopped the tram and checked in. I had the option of a dorm bed in a smaller tent or a spot in "The Tent". I opted for "The Tent" which is gymnasium sized with lockers, a wooden floor and somehow is colder inside than outside. They gave me 2 foam pads, 3 blankets and the option to upgrade. Bought a beer, talked to the fellow campers around the nightly bonfire and turned in.I awoke and used the 2euro credit they give us for a coffee, roll and a danish and then took the tram into the city. Got off at the main train station and walked towards Marieplatz Sq. where the New Gothic Rathus (town hall) is with the tall Glockenspiel. You quickly realize that the Bavarians are very fond of lions. They are found everywhere, each one colorfully painted with different themes. My favorite was Stonehedge Lion. I walked on thru HofGarten and then arrived at the famous Englisher Garten which is the biggest municipal park in Europe. It's also probably the biggest nudest park in the world! So, when in Rome....Laid out for a few hours and then got some movies and pics of guys surfing the standing wave generated by the river which runs thru the park. Pretty cool for being 6 hours from the nearest beach. After all that I was hungry and extremely thirsty so I found the world's most famous beer hall, Hofbrauhaus. But after getting a look at those 1 liter steins of beer I figured on my empty stomach I wouldn't make it out of there on my own two feet so I passed on the beer. Back at "The Tent" I hung with Stacy and her ex-baby sitter Andy(MN) and Kirstee (Perth) till 1:30 when we all turned in. Now my last day in Europe has arrived and I'll be damned if I'm gonna do anything but go back to the park again and lay in the grass!!This semester is over!! Like all students, I got a little lazy and bored at the end (It all starts to look the same after 100 days, at least the cities). But absolutely no regrets and I'm sure I passed this class and I think I did pretty well! Maybe could have done more. Or could have done less, but it doesn't matter. I'm on my own path and I did it. And now I'm very much looking forward to the next course: India 201- 3rd world cultural&spritual studies. It will certainly be more challenging, but I'm sure also more rewarding!!!! :)
Praha
Arrived at the Golden Sickle hostel which was reccomended to me by the Irish guys in Krakow. It's supposed to be a top 10 hostel, but I don't see it. It's ok, but with only one toilet and two showers between three dorms! Maybe the other rooms are better? It does have a nice courtyard to hang out during the day and an excellent pub right next door. It used to be a bomb shelter so like in Krakow when you first enter you think it's the smallest pub in the world, but then it just keeps going and going. The only thing on tap in Pilsner Urquell and that's alright with me! Got in kind off late the first night so I just walked around a bit. Praha is much bigger and urban than I had pictured in my mind.
The next morning it was drizzling so I put on my new rain jacket, but neglected to put on my boots and rain pants since it looked like it would clear. I was wrong. I crossed Kurlov Most brigde and headed up into the hills. I thought I took a wrong turn and wound up in France when I came to the mini Eiffel Tower. Saw the minature museum where you look at everything thru microscopes. Caught site Strahovsky Klaster, Loretta and a couple old churches and museums and the changing of the guard outside of the palace. But the rain was really putting a damper on things so I started to make my way back to the hostel. John (NZ) and AJ (OZ) from Kismet Dao hostel are here also.
At night AJ and I went for some Pilsner Urquel's (The only thing on the tap but that's fine with me) next door. Again deceptively looks small at first, but it was a bomb shelter originally and goes on forever. Beth and Becka (N.H.) joined us and after the drinks I spent from 1-7am on the internet and chatting with Megan (US) and Gordon (Scott) who works the graveyard shift for the hostel. Booked a two day excursion into Czech for the following day. Woke to the sun shining, had the free breakfast and went back to bed. Woke again and arranged my Mitfharzentale German Shared Ride to Munich. Stayed on the Hostel side of the river and walked around taking in the sites including the Jewish Quarter. Made it an early night and went to bed at 3:30am.Packed up and traded The DaVinci Code for Lucky Man-Michael J. Fox. Then hiked to the meeting point for the excursion into Czech.
Peter the trip leader arrived with Varun (NJ), John (FL) and Deserete (CA) and our last stop in Praha was to pick Johan (Sweden). We had a nice 1.5hr drive out of Praha and arrived at Kutna Hora to check out the Bone Church. The story goes: at some point a monk returned from Jerusalem with a couple handfuls of dirt which he spread in the cemetary. Well this made it "Holy Land" and very popular with the rich locals who now all wanted to be buried there. The only problem was that they were full. So they dug up the old poor peoples bones and started burying the new rich ones. (If you don't have alot of money you might want to consider cremation:) Eventually someone figured, "we have all these bones lying around, why not use them to decorate the church?" Well that's exactly what they did. After the church we went for some Czech food at a local pub which for me meant fried cheese and fries! At least the beer was real good!After a little more driving through the beautiful Czech countryside we arrived in Peter's home town of Dalecin where we would spend the night. It's a tiny, picturesque town and there we met Daniel (CA) and Robin (Vancouver/S. Africa) who both were on the last trip but refused to leave because they liked it so much.
We settled in and then strolled along a babbling brook and took some pics of part of an old castle wall. Continued on to Didta's pub for some more local food and drink. This time it meant for me frozen pizza with ketchup!! But again the beer was excellent and we traded shots with the locals while shooting shots of pool. Robin and I won the final 3 game match of the night, but they were gracious losers and invited us to a huge party the next day which unfortunately we couldn't make due to our date with Moravsky Kras Caves. BTW: Robin is a travel journalist for a Vancouver paper and also has a website (Moderngonzo.com). He asks everyone the same three questions and then posts the answers along with a headshot. Finish the following sentances: 1)Today I'm inspired by.... 2)Today I regret... 3)Today I'm thankful for...
Next morning we embarked on our trip to the caves. First a 3km walk thru a nice forest and then a walking tour thru the first part of the caves followed by a boat tour thru the second half. It's 48 degrees in the cave so bundle up and watch your head or you'll come out with lumps! It was nice and worth doing but not particularly mind blowing. I would have been more interesting if the tour had been in English. After the caves it was time for some more authentic Czech food. This time I sampled fried mushrooms and fries. OK I accept that being a vegetarian I have to suck it up with regard to local cuisine, but does it all have to be FRIED!!
A quick jaunt into Brno to drop off Deseret who was going to Vienna and then a peaceful ride back to Praha. Checked into Hostel Levir where I was happy to meet 3 Swedish girls and Dieogo (Brazil). After reading a little (including a Jehovah's Witness pamphlet I turned in.On leaving Diego offered me Angels & Demons which was very nice, but I already read it. Went to a park near the hostel and it took forever to find an entrance. Apparently there is only one.
Layed around in the park for a while and then caught the metro out to the pick up point for my ride to Munich. Had a little time so I wandered thru a mall playing American classic and alternative rock??? I was really hoping for a BMW, Porsche or even a VW since this guy giving us the ride was German and does the trip every week. What did me and Michaela (Czech) get: a 1991 2 dr beat up Ford Escort with no a/c or radio!! Oh Well:( It was a silent ride and finally he dropped us off, but in the middle of god knows where. It was a subway stop, but I didn't have any Euros yet and I didn't see any ATMs so it was a godsend that Michaela was being picked up by a friend and Sebastian was kind enough to offer me a ride to the main train station. I thanked him profusely and wished them both good luck finding jobs as he was recently laid off and she was going for an interview.
I was to stay at The Tent and the directions said to take tram 17 to Bontischer Garten. So I looked on the map and noticed Bontischer Garten was about 2 blocks away. So I walked. Only problem was that the actual Garden and the actual tram stop are miles apart. So I hopped the tram and checked in. I had the option of a dorm bed in a smaller tent or a spot in "The Tent". I opted for "The Tent" which is gymnasium sized with lockers, a wooden floor and somehow is colder inside than outside. They gave me 2 foam pads, 3 blankets and the option to upgrade. Bought a beer, talked to the fellow campers around the nightly bonfire and turned in.
The next morning it was drizzling so I put on my new rain jacket, but neglected to put on my boots and rain pants since it looked like it would clear. I was wrong. I crossed Kurlov Most brigde and headed up into the hills. I thought I took a wrong turn and wound up in France when I came to the mini Eiffel Tower. Saw the minature museum where you look at everything thru microscopes. Caught site Strahovsky Klaster, Loretta and a couple old churches and museums and the changing of the guard outside of the palace. But the rain was really putting a damper on things so I started to make my way back to the hostel. John (NZ) and AJ (OZ) from Kismet Dao hostel are here also.
At night AJ and I went for some Pilsner Urquel's (The only thing on the tap but that's fine with me) next door. Again deceptively looks small at first, but it was a bomb shelter originally and goes on forever. Beth and Becka (N.H.) joined us and after the drinks I spent from 1-7am on the internet and chatting with Megan (US) and Gordon (Scott) who works the graveyard shift for the hostel. Booked a two day excursion into Czech for the following day. Woke to the sun shining, had the free breakfast and went back to bed. Woke again and arranged my Mitfharzentale German Shared Ride to Munich. Stayed on the Hostel side of the river and walked around taking in the sites including the Jewish Quarter. Made it an early night and went to bed at 3:30am.Packed up and traded The DaVinci Code for Lucky Man-Michael J. Fox. Then hiked to the meeting point for the excursion into Czech.
Peter the trip leader arrived with Varun (NJ), John (FL) and Deserete (CA) and our last stop in Praha was to pick Johan (Sweden). We had a nice 1.5hr drive out of Praha and arrived at Kutna Hora to check out the Bone Church. The story goes: at some point a monk returned from Jerusalem with a couple handfuls of dirt which he spread in the cemetary. Well this made it "Holy Land" and very popular with the rich locals who now all wanted to be buried there. The only problem was that they were full. So they dug up the old poor peoples bones and started burying the new rich ones. (If you don't have alot of money you might want to consider cremation:) Eventually someone figured, "we have all these bones lying around, why not use them to decorate the church?" Well that's exactly what they did. After the church we went for some Czech food at a local pub which for me meant fried cheese and fries! At least the beer was real good!After a little more driving through the beautiful Czech countryside we arrived in Peter's home town of Dalecin where we would spend the night. It's a tiny, picturesque town and there we met Daniel (CA) and Robin (Vancouver/S. Africa) who both were on the last trip but refused to leave because they liked it so much.
We settled in and then strolled along a babbling brook and took some pics of part of an old castle wall. Continued on to Didta's pub for some more local food and drink. This time it meant for me frozen pizza with ketchup!! But again the beer was excellent and we traded shots with the locals while shooting shots of pool. Robin and I won the final 3 game match of the night, but they were gracious losers and invited us to a huge party the next day which unfortunately we couldn't make due to our date with Moravsky Kras Caves. BTW: Robin is a travel journalist for a Vancouver paper and also has a website (Moderngonzo.com). He asks everyone the same three questions and then posts the answers along with a headshot. Finish the following sentances: 1)Today I'm inspired by.... 2)Today I regret... 3)Today I'm thankful for...
Next morning we embarked on our trip to the caves. First a 3km walk thru a nice forest and then a walking tour thru the first part of the caves followed by a boat tour thru the second half. It's 48 degrees in the cave so bundle up and watch your head or you'll come out with lumps! It was nice and worth doing but not particularly mind blowing. I would have been more interesting if the tour had been in English. After the caves it was time for some more authentic Czech food. This time I sampled fried mushrooms and fries. OK I accept that being a vegetarian I have to suck it up with regard to local cuisine, but does it all have to be FRIED!!
A quick jaunt into Brno to drop off Deseret who was going to Vienna and then a peaceful ride back to Praha. Checked into Hostel Levir where I was happy to meet 3 Swedish girls and Dieogo (Brazil). After reading a little (including a Jehovah's Witness pamphlet I turned in.On leaving Diego offered me Angels & Demons which was very nice, but I already read it. Went to a park near the hostel and it took forever to find an entrance. Apparently there is only one.
Layed around in the park for a while and then caught the metro out to the pick up point for my ride to Munich. Had a little time so I wandered thru a mall playing American classic and alternative rock??? I was really hoping for a BMW, Porsche or even a VW since this guy giving us the ride was German and does the trip every week. What did me and Michaela (Czech) get: a 1991 2 dr beat up Ford Escort with no a/c or radio!! Oh Well:( It was a silent ride and finally he dropped us off, but in the middle of god knows where. It was a subway stop, but I didn't have any Euros yet and I didn't see any ATMs so it was a godsend that Michaela was being picked up by a friend and Sebastian was kind enough to offer me a ride to the main train station. I thanked him profusely and wished them both good luck finding jobs as he was recently laid off and she was going for an interview.
I was to stay at The Tent and the directions said to take tram 17 to Bontischer Garten. So I looked on the map and noticed Bontischer Garten was about 2 blocks away. So I walked. Only problem was that the actual Garden and the actual tram stop are miles apart. So I hopped the tram and checked in. I had the option of a dorm bed in a smaller tent or a spot in "The Tent". I opted for "The Tent" which is gymnasium sized with lockers, a wooden floor and somehow is colder inside than outside. They gave me 2 foam pads, 3 blankets and the option to upgrade. Bought a beer, talked to the fellow campers around the nightly bonfire and turned in.
Tuesday, June 21, 2005
Krakow, Poland
It was a cold rainy day when I left Budapest. A good day to travel. Arrived in Budapest without incident and walked to Kismet Dao Hostel. The references to eastern philosophy were what drew me there which turned out to be spot on. Nice staff, Brand new, spotless, free laundry, free breakfast with kitchen, nice common room and a 24\7 supermarket around the corner. The first night I just bonded with the crew of Irish and English travelers.Woke up to rain so I took my time rousing myself. Went for a walk in the on and off rain for about 3 hours, all the time keeping my eye out for a rain shell, but couldn't find any. That night the crew was bigger and around midnight we all decided to check out a club called "Frantic", but a couple of us were denied because we had on sneakers. So we went to "Prozack" instead which was cool. Looked deceptively small at first, but as you start exploring you find little offshoots everywhere. Wound up downstairs on the dancefloor with a couple of good DJ's spinning. Ordered a 7zt beer ($2) and gave the bartender a 20zt bill. "Do you want change?" "What do you think!!"The next day it was raining again, but can't let that get in the way of the necesary history lesson. So I broke out the emeregency rain parka (basically a trash bag with a hood) and after a little searching found the minibus going to Auschwitz. I spent the 1.5 hour trip wishing I could speak Polish so I could talk to the stunning Pole woman sitting next to me!Aushwitz is obviously sobering and depressing, stirring up a lot of anger! About every 3rd barrack has been converted into an exhibition with tons of literature in Polish, Hebrew & English. If you read everthing it would probably take a few days to complete. Each building deals with a particular aspect of the horror. Poles, Jews, Gypsies, etc. They have displayed:prison uniforms, prayer shawls, heaps of eyeglasses, shoes, suitcases and a really spooky room filled with about a ton of womans' hair collected after the gas chambers for sale to the fabric industry. Complete with traces of cyanide! Outside they still have the barbed wire fences and reconstructed part of the firing squad wall as well as a hanging post where 12 Poles suspected of aiding escapees were publicly hung to warn others. In general it's a horrible place, but seemed sterilized somehow?Walked about 30 minutes to the other camp: Birkenau. It's scale is incredibly daunting and dwarfs Aushciwitz in size. Even though its difficult to fully appreciate the size because most of the buildings have been burnt down their brick chimneys still remain and you can make out the huge area of the camp. It's more of a landmark than a museum. Not much literature here, just an opportunity to fathom the scale of the atrocities! Rows and Rows and Rows of barracks. Horrible conditions, horrifying experiments. Pure Evil! Upon disembarking the train the prisoners were lined up for selection. Not sure if it was better to be selected or not? 25% were selected for a slow drawn out death by hard labor, malnutrition and disease. The other 75% unfit for work marched thru a one way gate to the gas chambers. Went back and drowned my sorrows.Another rainy day. Went to check out the city anyway. Walked thru Rynek Glowny Square which is the largest Medieval Square in Europe. They carry on a tradition there where every hour a trumpet player performs a 5 note, two minute song which ends abruptly which represents the moment the original player got shot in throat with an arrow! Headed past various old churches and past Wawel Castle. From there continued souteast to the Jewish Quarter. Visited the Old Synagogue which is now a museum and the oldest synagogue in Europe. Saw a few more synagogues and circle the old cemetary twice, but apparently the entrances are sealed. Or maybe I'm just blind. I finally found a rain jacket at the Jewish flea market and everyone in Krakow can thank me for that because it immediately stopped raining and the sun came out!! :)Later after hanging with the Kismet crew we decided to go out to Prozak again, but they wouldn't let us in. I probably shouldn't have rolled up with 12 rowdy/loud Irish guys! Early that night the square was realy afire with activity because Krakow won their football championship and it brought out the riot police. But by the time we got there it was just a very quiet Sunday night.The next morning it was at least dry so I went to see Wawel Castle, the old Royal residence. Then rolled down again to the Jewish Quarter which is really kind of boring, but I had nothing better to do. Everyone was kind of burnt that night so I just collected my clean laundry (free!, which is nice cause you usually have to pay about $10 for one load in Europe!!) and packed up for Prague.
Sunday, June 19, 2005
Budapest
Made the 7:10am train and sat with a couple from Seattle who had rented a sailboat and cruised the Croation islands. Arrived and hooved it 2 metro stops to teh Almos Hostel. Got there and there was a note with a number to call to be let in. Pain in the Ass!! I had no Hungarian money so I went in search of an Atm. Couldn't find one! Apparently I went in the wrong direction because after backtracking I found one 2 blocks away from the hostel. Now all I have to do is break a 10,000huf note($50.00). Tried to buy a coke, but they wouldn't do it so I bought some authentic Hungarian food, Subway:) Made the phone call and the receptionist got there within five minutes. The hostel was tiny! A kitchen, a bath, and two rooms with with eight beds. Good location though. She marked down the sites to see on the map and left. I climbed into bed for a nap, but Konstatine (Clark from L.A.) checked in and we started talking. Two Aussie girls (Kathy & Jo) overheard me talking about Croatia and joined the conversation. Around 10pm we went to a bar recommended to them called Szimpla. It used to be housing, but has been converted to a locals hangout with the courtyard serving as an open air patio. Cool place and cheap. 360huf ($1.75) for a good beer. Sat and talked with an Ex-pat from L.A. and two of his local friends. They shut down at 2am. Jo & Clark were fired up for more action, but it was Sunday and there really weren't any options so we headed back to the hotel. We were barely through the front gate when some old lady yells something in Hungarian from inside her apartment. Presumably, "Shut the hell up!!!". We all turned in and within seconds Clark is sawing logs.Woke up and had a cup of Joe with Jo, Kathy and Clark and we all decided to go to the Hungarian thermal baths. We walked up thru Varosliget Park and Hero's Square. The seven main "hero's" were the leaders of seven tribes who were instrumental in forming\liberating Hungary. From there we made it to the Szechenyi Furdo Baths. Very enjoyable and relaxing. Mulitple mineral pools inside with graduating temperatures, saunas, various outdoor pools, a steam room where I couldn't see my hand in front of my face and even a whirl pool which whisks you around in circles. Lo and behold who do I see in the whirl pool circling behing me, Dave, Alex and Will from Croatia. Something weird is going on behind the cosmic scenes to cause all these paths to cross and recross. $10 for all day, but you get an automatic refund if you use less time. Well worth it! Afterward we tried some Hungarian pretzels. Huge with the salt baked inside and then stopped for some falafel pitas. On the way back we checked the times for "Taming of the Shrew" at the famous opera house, but no shows tonight.The girls left early to continue their journey and Clark and I had some more authentic Hungarian food for breakfast, McDonalds Egg Mcmuffin:) We then went exploring the city. First to Margaret's Island which is essentially a huge park. The story goes: A warring king declared that if Hungary won the war they were fighting he would sacrafice his daughter! Well they won the war, but to avoid sacrafice his daughter became a nun. She lived on the island for over 20 years and when she died they renamed the island after her. We strolled down the Danu river and took in some great views including a climb up "Castle Hill" which was a great place to check out the impressive Parliament building as well as the whole city. Passed the "Citadel" and then I dragged Clark and his blistering feet (he just started his trip and wasn't acclimated to all the walking) back across the river to search for Buddha Beach. We found the area, but I didn't spot one Buddha!!?! Along the way we found a vegetarian restaurant called "Eden" and stopped in for dinner.Clark had a Russian cous-cous kind of thing like his mom used to make and also ordered a walnut pasta dish which he wound up taking to go. I had a "Wheat Beef stew" dish with soy dumplings and a strawberry milk shake. All was great except the drinks cost us 3 times as much as we thougt they would because the menu prices were for 10cl while we got 30cl drinks. I still wound up getting a great meal for about $8.00.After dinner we went back and changed for the Ballet and brought along a newcomer, John (PA). We got a little lost and got there late, but it didn't matter. The show started at 7pm, but the ticket office closed at 6:30pm which is when we left so we would have never made it. So we picked up a couple of English girls and went for a beer. When the bill came the girls didn't have enough to pay so they went off to the Atm while we sat and wondered if they would come back. They didn't seem the type, but you never know. They were taking a long time on a chilly night so we were contemplating a plan to run. Hey, we left our share! They eventually came back though and all ended well. The next morning I planned on going to Krakow, Poland. Well that was the plan. I went and bought my ticket, but didn't specifically ask for the 11:50am train and instead got an overnight ticket. That was no good, especially since I've heard way too many stories of people getting gassed of the Poland/Czech overnight trains and waking up with everything gone. So I got back on to a superslow line and by the time I got up to the window the train had gone! Changed the ticket anyway, emailed to Krakow hostel regarding the delay and searched fpr a bed for the night. Wouldn't you know it, nothing available!!! Uh, Oh!! So I went back to the Hostel I was at hoping for a cancellation and prepared to beg for a couch for the night. Well there weren't any cancellations, but there was a big bed in the office which was offered to me. DONE! Left and went out for pics of the largest synagogue in Europe as well as a nice basilica. Then went back and changed for the opera. Luckily I had bought my tickets earlier in the day because I found myself jogging to the opera to make it on time!! It was interesting. And by interesting I mean bloody awful!!! Of course it was in Hungarian, but it did have subtitles. In Hungarian!?!? Which was ridiculous because I don't speak Hungarian and I could follow it. It was about two guys, one rich and one poor. They apparently both like to sleep in. The rich guy gets awoken very gently and lovingly. The poor guy gets beaten out of bed and cursed at. Poor guy sleeps on a park bench, Rich guy meets a whore and screws her complete with climax scene. Very Slow. Until the last scene of the first act when the whore comes out and does her Aria. No, I don't think it could be called an aria. Let's say solo. Until this it was all very classical, but now changes to Vegas Caberet number complete with 16 guys doing coreographed moves behing her. Very strange!! I enjoyed it most when I closed my eyes, tuned out the singing and just tuned into the orchestra which was very good. Tomorrow I hope to make it to Krakow......??????
Croatia
After getting to stretch out for a while on the train eventually 3 guys from Croatia/Macedonia joined me which turned out to be a good thing since they were able to translate for me the message that we had to unexpectedly change trains upon crossing the border. I got my passport stamped on this trip more times than in all my previous travels combined. We arrived in Zagreb and two of the guys were continuing on to Split and since I didn't think there was much to do or see in Zagreb I tagged along to the bus station. I decided to go all the way to Dubrovnick which is supposed to be the crown jewel of Croatia and then make my back up to coast. After a 9 hour train ride from Venice I wasn't looking forward to the 12.5 hour bus ride, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. It seemed like there weren't any local buses in Croatia, just this one bus hitting every out of the way stop in the country. I think we were on the freeway maybe an hour in total and throughout the night we stopped and picked up rowdy party people going home for the night. More stops upon entering Dubrovnick for ID's. I think they were just making sure no underagers were entering since they didn't take any real interest in my US passport. Travel tip: don't bother trying to book a hostel in Croatia. First of all, there really aren't any (well maybe one). Second of all, as soon as you get off the train you'll be accosted by a group of people running towards you offering rooms. A lady offered me a room for 100kn, but I talked her down to 90kn and saved a whole $1.50! She spoke just enough English to do her business, but her daughters spoke it well and it was a decent enough room with kitchen access and a good location. When we got there she offered me coffee, but I was worn out and declined. Instead I climbed into bed and passed out. Woke up and went straight to the beach. Quite a decent into a nice cove with quite a few people on the beach which was not sand. Rounded stone with splotches of tar! Gotta deduct points for that! The water was nice though and had a good swim while checking out the local kids cliff jumping from some dizzying heights (~11 meters). One of three Brits (Dave) I left my stuff with on the beach did the big jump. Didn't hit it perfectly and hurt his back a little. To add insult to injury his mate (Alex) didn't get the pic because his battery died. After the beach I headed back to the room where I was very excited to cook up a nice veggie/cheese omlette, but between the time I dropped off my groceries and retrieved my knife from the room the lady of the house had poured me a bowl of noodle soup, bread and 2 mysterious fish. Well I couldn't say no so I ate the soup with bread, but put the fish back. My omelette will have to wait. Went for a walk along the coast, briefly me the middle daughter and later that night I finally got to enjoy my eggs.The next day I went for a walk in a state park, but apart from the views and some guys pilfering rocks there wasn't much to see. Back at the residence I met a couple from Perth who were headed to Rome so I gave them some information and in exchange Collin offered me The Davinci Code. "Sweet, Thanks" (Good book, but I think Angels & Demons was better). Repeated the beach scene, started my jogging again and in the after sunset I went for a stroll to check out "Old Town". Which isn't really old since it was bombed to hell and then faithfully rebuilt recently. None the less it was cool to check out even though I'm sure back in the day it wasn't overun with commercialism like it is today. Or maybe it was, just without the flourescent lighting? Later back at the house I met the oldest daughter, but our conversation was cut of abruptly with the arrival of her boyfriend!Repeated everything again the next day. Beach, jog and then pics in Old Town. Next morning I walked to the bus depot for a 4.5 hour bus ride to Split where I was again surrounded by landlords. One actually thought I'd pay 20 euros for a room! Eventually a nice lady offered me a room nearby for 120kn, but I told her 100kn was my limit and she agreed. Nice room with a tv and since I was staying two nights Grandma (thru the husband cause she didn't speak any English) gave me permission to use the kitchen. Dropped of the pack and went wandering along the coast. Hordes of people on the beach and frolicking in the water which is incredibly shallow. It's about knee to thigh deep for a good 120 yards. Croatia is pretty famous for nude beaches designated by "FKK", but I only saw on pair of breasts! Later I learned that there aren't any FKK's in Split:(Went for a jog in the other direction along the coast, came back and met Jeff (England) and the retired to watch a interesting movie called "Blaze". True story of Earl Long (Paul Newman) who is the Governor of Louisiana and gets involved with a stripper. Which along with his progressive stance on civil rights causes him his office. Then he runs for Senate and wins, but dies before the last vote was counted.Next day I skipped breakfast and went straight to the beach. Plenty of cute girls and many older woman, but I'll be damned if I know where they are hiding the 20/30 somethings!! Sitting at a table a group of teenage girls asked me something in Croatian so I smiled and said no comprende. But they, as all young croatians know English so I quickly realized they needed a whole Kuna (~16 cents). I gave it to them and they went off and to probably a soda. Then a teenage boy came up to me and asked for a cigarette. But when I told him I didn't have any he asked if I'd mind talking with him and his friends. I invited them to sit and we discussed politics (Bush/EU), traveling and music. One had travelled quite a bit and another was really into Bob Dylan, Simon & Garfunkel, etc. Which was very suprising to me since they were barely out of highschool. After a while they made me promise that if I made it big in music that I'd come back to Split and play a concert. I told them I'd do one better. I'd bring Dylan to open the show. Next day I'm catching the 11:30pm bus back to Zagreb so I spend the day much like the rest and settle in for a 6.5 hour ride. Arrived and asked a couple of students who were walking to school (on Saturday!? that sucks) where I could find an internet connection. They walked me there, but I found no availability in Budapest. Damn! No sleep last night and it looks like I'll be spending another sleepless night in a train station. The internet showed absolutely no hostels in Zagreb, but I went and got a hotel guide and lo and behold there is a hostel and it's only 3 blocks away. It was run down and I couldn't check in untill 2pm, but it was cheap and in a great location. Walked around and chilled in a park till check in and then crashed. Woke, walked, took pics, went for a jog and capped it off with a very cold shower, not by choice! Met a young couple from Oregon who pointed out an earlier train to Budapest than I had seen, went and confirmed the train and finished off the night watching the locals hanging out in the park on a Saturday night.
To conclude: Croatia is a nice place to visit, but regarding Dubrovnick I feel I have to make one last comment. Everyone I spoke to said "YOU HAVE TO GO TO DUBROVNICK!!!". Well for the record I'd put it in the category of: "It's a nice place to visit for a couple of days, but don't make a special trip". It was really overhyped to me, so I just want to adjust the bellcurve a little. :) (However if you happen to be an ant with your own wave generating machine you could have some epic waves all to yourself. So Flat!!)
To conclude: Croatia is a nice place to visit, but regarding Dubrovnick I feel I have to make one last comment. Everyone I spoke to said "YOU HAVE TO GO TO DUBROVNICK!!!". Well for the record I'd put it in the category of: "It's a nice place to visit for a couple of days, but don't make a special trip". It was really overhyped to me, so I just want to adjust the bellcurve a little. :) (However if you happen to be an ant with your own wave generating machine you could have some epic waves all to yourself. So Flat!!)
Tuesday, June 14, 2005
Venezia
Shared a compartment on the train with a couple of Italian newlyweds on at the end of their "wedding tour". Arrived in Venice after another long sleepless train ride. Couldn't sleep lest I miss changing trains in Bolgna. Took the shuttle to the camping ground and checked in. Tried to sleep, but the sun was beating down on the tent. Even though I was dead tired I decided to go for a walk. Maybe I can find something interesting or even a good market. Walked a couple of miles in one direction and the only thing I came across was a gas station which didn't even have a soda machine! Headed back and did a mile in the other direction. Again, nothing! I saw a sign for McDonald's and tried to find it since I figured I deserved at least an icecream cone for my efforts, but alas I couldn't find that either. Empty handed, I returned to camp. Took a refreshing swim and relaxed by the pool until the sun abated, but by that time I figured it would be better just to stay up a while longer and go to bed early. So I grabbed my journal, took a table and began sipping wine and writing. Around 9:30 I was just about finishing up and getting ready to head off to bed when an Aussie girl (Collette) came over and asked if I'd like to join there table of about 14 travelers. Well, I couldn't be rude so I accepted. Around an hour later we learned there was to be a Pasta Party (Free food) at midnight. Well so much for getting to bed early. Chatted with everyone and watched the Liverpool vs. Milan football championship (Liv. won in a shootout). I got to the "Pasta Party" at 12:15 and it was all gone! Some Party!!! Danced for a few times and then crashed hard in the tent.
Took the bus to Venice to check things out. Everyone gets lost in Venice. I didn't! Because I didn't really care where I went. Just roamed around and when I saw a sign for San Marco's Plaza (main) I headed in that direction. Finally got a homestyle slices of pizza here. Stopped at the Vivaldi exhibition. They had some interesting historical information and instruments from 17th-20th century. Some bizarre instruments I had never even seen before. With some nice Vivaldi playing in the background I learned that "Four Seasons" is one of the most performed classical pieces ever! And apparently he was from a very poor family and spent his life chasing money. He faired very well in that department, but lived it up and left nothing. Eventually I came to the Grand Canal and San Marco's Plaza. Both nice, big and picturesque. Thousands of pigeons and people posing for pics with them on their arms and shoulders. Suprisingly not much pigeon shit though! After wandering all day I caught the bus back with a young Aussie couple who were on the bus in the morning and looked as tired as I was. The next morning I wanted to meet up with Lisa (Tuscany) so I thought I'd walk to the train station, buy a ticket onward to Croatia and go into Venice again. I thought it would take about an 1hr-1.5hr. I was wrong. After 2.5 hours I was asking for bus directions to the train station. By the time I got back to camp the afternoon was pretty much shot so I hung out at the pool, ate a pizza and then grabbed a table to write in the journal. Shortly a couple of Americans were looking for seats so I offered Mike & Andy (N.C.) a place to sit. Soon their travel buddies: Sarah (Mike's girl), Emily (her sister) and Velvet (Canada) joined us and we all had a nice evening. Venice was nice. But you don't need much time there unless you're doing the romance thing.
Off to Croatia.....
Took the bus to Venice to check things out. Everyone gets lost in Venice. I didn't! Because I didn't really care where I went. Just roamed around and when I saw a sign for San Marco's Plaza (main) I headed in that direction. Finally got a homestyle slices of pizza here. Stopped at the Vivaldi exhibition. They had some interesting historical information and instruments from 17th-20th century. Some bizarre instruments I had never even seen before. With some nice Vivaldi playing in the background I learned that "Four Seasons" is one of the most performed classical pieces ever! And apparently he was from a very poor family and spent his life chasing money. He faired very well in that department, but lived it up and left nothing. Eventually I came to the Grand Canal and San Marco's Plaza. Both nice, big and picturesque. Thousands of pigeons and people posing for pics with them on their arms and shoulders. Suprisingly not much pigeon shit though! After wandering all day I caught the bus back with a young Aussie couple who were on the bus in the morning and looked as tired as I was. The next morning I wanted to meet up with Lisa (Tuscany) so I thought I'd walk to the train station, buy a ticket onward to Croatia and go into Venice again. I thought it would take about an 1hr-1.5hr. I was wrong. After 2.5 hours I was asking for bus directions to the train station. By the time I got back to camp the afternoon was pretty much shot so I hung out at the pool, ate a pizza and then grabbed a table to write in the journal. Shortly a couple of Americans were looking for seats so I offered Mike & Andy (N.C.) a place to sit. Soon their travel buddies: Sarah (Mike's girl), Emily (her sister) and Velvet (Canada) joined us and we all had a nice evening. Venice was nice. But you don't need much time there unless you're doing the romance thing.
Off to Croatia.....
Sunday, June 12, 2005
Rome 2nd time's the charm
Got off the ferry and I'm walking to the train station wondering if I'd make it in time. I forgot that I gained an hour between Greece and Italy. Didn't matter though because the first train out wasn't for a few hours anyway. Caught a very crowded train to Rome and it was slow and kept stopping in the middle of nowhere for some reason. Got in an hour late, but no big deal. Arrived in Rome and the bus to Camping Roma was so jam packed. Tired, there was no way I was waiting for the next bus so a big exhale and the bus doors barely closed. Shared a tent with Wayne, a Mormon from, you guessed it, Utah. Hung out with fellow camp-mates Nina (England), Naomi&Olivia (Sydney) and Tim&Sammy (NY). Reminisced about things we miss from home. Besides family and friends mostly food! Also talked to Sam's new found love of surfing. He's a newbie and is determined to give it a go in Bali. Good luck!!
It's Culture Week in Rome so most things are free to get into this week. Only problem is that it ends Sunday, so instead of relaxing after my taxing travels I went out to see as much as I could. Located a Pyramid on the map which looked like it might be a good place to start. Took a pic and walked towards the Colliseum thru some lesser traveled parts of Rome for an authentic feel. Scored a free bottle of water from the "Race for a Cure" Race crew and came to the Colliseo which really is impressive. How much blood was split there? How much human flesh was devoured there?? Saw the Terme di Caracalla (Huge ruins) and of course the Arco di Constatine leading to the Colliseo. Adjacent to that is the Foro Romano (Roman Forum). Very cool, large Ancient archeological site. Then browsed a couple of museums, Campidoglia and Musei Capotilini. Lots of cool marble statues, ancient Roman coins and a few decent paintings. Followed that up with the Area Sacre (Sacred Site) which are ruins of four temples and the site where Caesar was killed on that fateful Ides of March. Then I did a quick tour thru Crypta Baldi which I thought would be a tomb, but turned out to be a museum about the ancient archeology of the area. Then on to the Pantheon with it's Demon's Hole (largest free standing dome). Very nice inside with intricate murals and statues. From there perused the Fontana di Trevi. Very cool, but way overcrowed. Continued on to Castel Sant Angelo which is an ancient fortress with a large spiraling ramp which I imagine chariots rode up and down in times of siege. Had some cool canyons and catapults which must have reeked havoc back in the day. Excellent view from there also. Then a jaunt into another country, Vatican City. Strolled thru San Pietro's Square, but they wouldn't let me into the Basillica because I was wearing shorts. Hello! It's the 21st century. I don't think I'm gonna invoke any lustful yearnings with my hairy legs. But then again?....priests. Nah, I'm not young enough. Yeah, I know, I'm going to Hell. (No disrespect intended to the good ones! Much disrespect intended to the evil ones). OK back off the soapbox.The next day I just relaxed by the pool and the most interesting thing I came across was a German girl who drank her beer mixed with sprite? Tried it and actually it's not bad. The added lemon might go really well with a Weiss beer. Apparently it's a common thing in Germany.
After yesterday's rest I'm ready to go back to Vatican City. It's a steep 12 euro fee (like they need it!), but you get your moneys worth. It's huge. Lots of religious paintings of course which to me weren't remarkable except for one large scene of Original Sin which was my favorite. In fact, I thought the most interesting paintings there were in the modern section including a rare religious Van Gogh. Many intricate yet boring tapestries. Awesome collection of marble statues, Roman vases and ancient coin collection. What was most impressive to me was actually the building and rooms themselves. Very beautiful and ornate. Almost every ceiling was either mural painted or sculpted in intricate marble or wood. They displayed some ancient bibles, globes and a whole hall of huge ancient maps of the world as it was known (or not so known) back then. They also had a room of some Egyptian artifacts and art including two actual mummies. Near the end of the museum you come to the climax. The Cappella Sistina! No pictures or excessive talking allowed. I complied with the quietness, but I'll be damned (probably am) if I was going to get any pictures. I appologize for any bluriness in the pics, but I didn't want to push it by using a flash. It's all there: The Last Judgement with a self portrait of Michaelangelo as St. Bartholemew. Creation of Man with Adam naked and God Clothed. I guess God has shame??? The Last Supper with the eleven apostles (yes that's right 11. the twelth is Mary Magdelen. Check it out.)(Dan Brown fans know). Sermon on the Mount, The Temptation of Christ, Moses presenting the 10 Commandments, His Last Days and Parting of the Red Sea (Of course, no one in any of these scenes looks even remotely Jewish!). Very impressive, but I wasn't as blown away as I thought I'd be. Probably due to three things: 1. too high an expectation 2. the ceiling is so high you can't appreciate the detail 3. you have to nearly break your neck to view it.
Finished the museum and went into San Pietro's Basilica. WOW!! This one really did blow me away. I had no idea. The scale, attention to detail and workmanship is incredible. So many pic ops, but unfortunately I ran out of batteries after about 5 pics. I was kicking myself! Hard!!! Near the end I came across a scene which I don't know the name of, but it obviously has to do with death since there is a huge bronze skeleton springing forth from it. It totally stood out from the other rather sedate scenes around the church. I had to have a pic so I prayed (what the hell, when in Rome) for enough juice for one more. Miracles do happen! Of course I couldn't use the flash so it came out blurry, but maybe it will be viewable on a monitor. I might have to come back just for the Basilica.Afterwards I passed the Botanical garden and Piazzle Garibaldi before heading back to pick up my backpack. On the return trip I stopped at Flaminio to check out the park and catch sunset from the height with a great view. Very nice park. A Globe Theatre, Piazza di Siena which is an equestrian park, nice plants/trees, open spaces and a couple of ponds. A great place for a bike ride, jog or just to hang out. Saw the sunset over Piazzo del Popol and the walk towards the train station past Piazzo Spagna with the Spanish Steps and Piazzi Barberini and finally past Basilica San Maria Maggiorie. Wayne suggested it because apparently they have a lot of creations made of human bones. Unfortunately it was closed due to the late hour.
But other than that I didn't really see anything:)
Bought a ticket to Venezia on the 12:47 am train. Around 12:15 I noticed the train isn't up on the departure board. Huh? Maybe they're just behind in the update. Better go to the computer and make sure I did everything right. Yep. But it's still not on the departure board. Checked the printed version for departures and it's not there either. Uh Oh! Took a closer look at my ticket and notice the departure station isn't Roma Termini, but Roma-something or other! What the Heck! I inputed everything correctly and it gives me a ticket for a station I didn't even know existed. There's no way I have time to get to another station. Luckily the train info. window is still open. The guys tells me to get on the train at binario 3 which is scheduled to leave at 12:22am. It's now 12:24, but luckily it left late so after a short sprint I made it on with 20 seconds to spare. Two miracles in one day!!! Maybe I'm not damned afterall. Thank YOU!!
It's Culture Week in Rome so most things are free to get into this week. Only problem is that it ends Sunday, so instead of relaxing after my taxing travels I went out to see as much as I could. Located a Pyramid on the map which looked like it might be a good place to start. Took a pic and walked towards the Colliseum thru some lesser traveled parts of Rome for an authentic feel. Scored a free bottle of water from the "Race for a Cure" Race crew and came to the Colliseo which really is impressive. How much blood was split there? How much human flesh was devoured there?? Saw the Terme di Caracalla (Huge ruins) and of course the Arco di Constatine leading to the Colliseo. Adjacent to that is the Foro Romano (Roman Forum). Very cool, large Ancient archeological site. Then browsed a couple of museums, Campidoglia and Musei Capotilini. Lots of cool marble statues, ancient Roman coins and a few decent paintings. Followed that up with the Area Sacre (Sacred Site) which are ruins of four temples and the site where Caesar was killed on that fateful Ides of March. Then I did a quick tour thru Crypta Baldi which I thought would be a tomb, but turned out to be a museum about the ancient archeology of the area. Then on to the Pantheon with it's Demon's Hole (largest free standing dome). Very nice inside with intricate murals and statues. From there perused the Fontana di Trevi. Very cool, but way overcrowed. Continued on to Castel Sant Angelo which is an ancient fortress with a large spiraling ramp which I imagine chariots rode up and down in times of siege. Had some cool canyons and catapults which must have reeked havoc back in the day. Excellent view from there also. Then a jaunt into another country, Vatican City. Strolled thru San Pietro's Square, but they wouldn't let me into the Basillica because I was wearing shorts. Hello! It's the 21st century. I don't think I'm gonna invoke any lustful yearnings with my hairy legs. But then again?....priests. Nah, I'm not young enough. Yeah, I know, I'm going to Hell. (No disrespect intended to the good ones! Much disrespect intended to the evil ones). OK back off the soapbox.The next day I just relaxed by the pool and the most interesting thing I came across was a German girl who drank her beer mixed with sprite? Tried it and actually it's not bad. The added lemon might go really well with a Weiss beer. Apparently it's a common thing in Germany.
After yesterday's rest I'm ready to go back to Vatican City. It's a steep 12 euro fee (like they need it!), but you get your moneys worth. It's huge. Lots of religious paintings of course which to me weren't remarkable except for one large scene of Original Sin which was my favorite. In fact, I thought the most interesting paintings there were in the modern section including a rare religious Van Gogh. Many intricate yet boring tapestries. Awesome collection of marble statues, Roman vases and ancient coin collection. What was most impressive to me was actually the building and rooms themselves. Very beautiful and ornate. Almost every ceiling was either mural painted or sculpted in intricate marble or wood. They displayed some ancient bibles, globes and a whole hall of huge ancient maps of the world as it was known (or not so known) back then. They also had a room of some Egyptian artifacts and art including two actual mummies. Near the end of the museum you come to the climax. The Cappella Sistina! No pictures or excessive talking allowed. I complied with the quietness, but I'll be damned (probably am) if I was going to get any pictures. I appologize for any bluriness in the pics, but I didn't want to push it by using a flash. It's all there: The Last Judgement with a self portrait of Michaelangelo as St. Bartholemew. Creation of Man with Adam naked and God Clothed. I guess God has shame??? The Last Supper with the eleven apostles (yes that's right 11. the twelth is Mary Magdelen. Check it out.)(Dan Brown fans know). Sermon on the Mount, The Temptation of Christ, Moses presenting the 10 Commandments, His Last Days and Parting of the Red Sea (Of course, no one in any of these scenes looks even remotely Jewish!). Very impressive, but I wasn't as blown away as I thought I'd be. Probably due to three things: 1. too high an expectation 2. the ceiling is so high you can't appreciate the detail 3. you have to nearly break your neck to view it.
Finished the museum and went into San Pietro's Basilica. WOW!! This one really did blow me away. I had no idea. The scale, attention to detail and workmanship is incredible. So many pic ops, but unfortunately I ran out of batteries after about 5 pics. I was kicking myself! Hard!!! Near the end I came across a scene which I don't know the name of, but it obviously has to do with death since there is a huge bronze skeleton springing forth from it. It totally stood out from the other rather sedate scenes around the church. I had to have a pic so I prayed (what the hell, when in Rome) for enough juice for one more. Miracles do happen! Of course I couldn't use the flash so it came out blurry, but maybe it will be viewable on a monitor. I might have to come back just for the Basilica.Afterwards I passed the Botanical garden and Piazzle Garibaldi before heading back to pick up my backpack. On the return trip I stopped at Flaminio to check out the park and catch sunset from the height with a great view. Very nice park. A Globe Theatre, Piazza di Siena which is an equestrian park, nice plants/trees, open spaces and a couple of ponds. A great place for a bike ride, jog or just to hang out. Saw the sunset over Piazzo del Popol and the walk towards the train station past Piazzo Spagna with the Spanish Steps and Piazzi Barberini and finally past Basilica San Maria Maggiorie. Wayne suggested it because apparently they have a lot of creations made of human bones. Unfortunately it was closed due to the late hour.
But other than that I didn't really see anything:)
Bought a ticket to Venezia on the 12:47 am train. Around 12:15 I noticed the train isn't up on the departure board. Huh? Maybe they're just behind in the update. Better go to the computer and make sure I did everything right. Yep. But it's still not on the departure board. Checked the printed version for departures and it's not there either. Uh Oh! Took a closer look at my ticket and notice the departure station isn't Roma Termini, but Roma-something or other! What the Heck! I inputed everything correctly and it gives me a ticket for a station I didn't even know existed. There's no way I have time to get to another station. Luckily the train info. window is still open. The guys tells me to get on the train at binario 3 which is scheduled to leave at 12:22am. It's now 12:24, but luckily it left late so after a short sprint I made it on with 20 seconds to spare. Two miracles in one day!!! Maybe I'm not damned afterall. Thank YOU!!
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